Two Modalities of Kilt-Wearing

[andyfg]

I have read with interest a number of threads that tackle the issues of whether kilts ought or ought not to be worn in traditional highland style and what makes a kilt a “real” kilt.

On my morning run I was thinking about it and it strikes me that on Xmarks, generally, there are two modalities of kilt wearing. The first, for arguments sake, let’s call “traditional highland wear (THW).” The second, “casual fashion wear (CFW).”

It seems a lot of debate occurs around the interface of these two modalities.

THW is characterized by a deep respect for the tradition and history of the kilt, and hence of Scotland. It is a more formal style and whether, dress, semi-casual or casual has distinctiveness about it (type of jacket, hose, shoes etc.). It is “traditional” in that it pays great respect to the way the kilt has been worn in the last 100 years or so with regard to style of kilt, jackets etc. Though even here, there have been subtle changes (number of buttons on kilt jackets, width of jacket collars etc). THW is the choice for Burn’s Nights, Weddings, Highland Games (as a spectator in tweed jacket) and the Pipe band.

CFW, though at times stylish enough to mass muster at any non-Highland event is a more free way of wearing a kilt. It is less concerned about highland traditions and focuses more on contemporary style, comfort etc. CFW is more innovative (UKs, Sports Kilts). CFW marks an important step in the evolution of kilt wearing. If kilt wearing is to become something more than novelty for a few as an everyday garment for males, it seems to me that CFW is an extraordinarily important development.

A personal reflection. I teach at the State University of New York. Faculty dress code is fairly relaxed. (In fact even the dressiest of occasions would amount to little more than “smart casual” in up-State NY). I happen to love Harris Tweed and own a number of jackets. I wear one occasionally to teach. But, I have to say that Harris Tweed jackets appeal to “men of a certain age” and are quite rare on campus. This would not have been the case 50 years ago when most male faculty would wear a similar jacket. Tweed jackets for less formal kilt wearing also hail from that period of fashion history. To suggest that for CFW tweed jacket is always best seems to lock kilt-wearing into a bygone age. We may look with great affection on that age, but to fit into contemporary society kilt-wearing needs to evolve with it. I have a beautiful Harris Tweed kilt jacket and vest. So for formal events (graduations convocations etc) I wear the kilt in THW, though as far as THW goes, informally (tweeds). When I wear the kilt for CFW it is with hose up (winter) down (spring/fall) no hose summer (far too hot) with shoes, sandals, boots, and shirt, t-shirt, fleece or whatever suits the occasion best. Even casual THW would not be appropriate on a typical NY summer’s day.

When THW is required it would be odd for someone to dress as for CFW. On a warm day in the state park, THW (even informally) is not best attire for gorge walking!

Whether you prefer THW or CFW or (like me both) enjoy your kilt! I, for one, am glad of the current renaissance in kilt-wearing.

Cheers!

[Mael Coluim]

Well said, Andy. I would classify my personal preference in kilt wearing as you describe.

[Rex_Tremende]

...it strikes me that on Xmarks, generally, there are two modalities of kilt wearing. The first, for arguments sake, let’s call “traditional highland wear (THW).” The second, “casual fashion wear (CFW).”

It seems a lot of debate occurs around the interface of these two modalities.

THW is characterized by a deep respect for the tradition and history of the kilt, and hence of Scotland. It is a more formal style and whether, dress, semi-casual or casual has distinctiveness about it (type of jacket, hose, shoes etc.). It is “traditional” in that it pays great respect to the way the kilt has been worn in the last 100 years or so with regard to style of kilt, jackets etc. Though even here, there have been subtle changes (number of buttons on kilt jackets, width of jacket collars etc). THW is the choice for Burn’s Nights, Weddings, Highland Games (as a spectator in tweed jacket) and the Pipe band.

CFW, though at times stylish enough to mass muster at any non-Highland event is a more free way of wearing a kilt. It is less concerned about highland traditions and focuses more on contemporary style, comfort etc. CFW is more innovative (UKs, Sports Kilts). CFW marks an important step in the evolution of kilt wearing. If kilt wearing is to become something more than novelty for a few as an everyday garment for males, it seems to me that CFW is an extraordinarily important development.

[...]

To suggest that for CFW tweed jacket is always best seems to lock kilt-wearing into a bygone age. We may look with great affection on that age, but to fit into contemporary society kilt-wearing needs to evolve with it.

[...]

Whether you prefer THW or CFW or (like me both) enjoy your kilt! I, for one, am glad of the current renaissance in kilt-wearing.

Thank you for expressing this so well. I'm with you, Andy.

I think that XMTS is at its best when these two modalities coexist peacefully. I believe it drives people away when one side or the other attempts to assert itself too much over the other.

Regards,
Rex.

[Panache]

Great post Andy!

Cheers

Jamie

[ChubRock]

Your timing couldn't be more perfect. Today IO am going to the Grand Opening of the Scottish American Center of Minnesota. Instead of wearing a Utilikilt, I am instead wearing a SWK Nightstalker. THough it is a day event and I don't own the formal wear, I thought a nice pressed shirt, kilt hose and dress black shoes would be more appropriate than a polo and boots.

I was wondering aloud this morning would be ok to dress this way since it isn't a formal event, but also more than t-shirts and shorts. I think reading your thread told me that I can be comfortable in what I wear and the way I wear it. Thanks for that.

[ziggy]

Excellent post to establish a framework that is easy to work with.

Quite possibly because I am still new to kilts, but for me even dressed down THW is still a good casual approach....honestly though kilts, even casual, are still to expensive to do something so casual that I may damage it. I'll always wear jeans in this case...so having said that, I guess for me I just don't "think" CFW. No disrepect to those that do of course, and I'd be the last person to ever mock or grin at somebody doing so.

The forum has been very energetic lately with this particular subject, the one inevitable luxury of this is all nooks and crannies will be discovered. While I do agree that CFW could well be very important for the continued spread of the kilt, a peice of me would die if THW ever stopped existing.

It's a mucky subject this, haha.

[pdcorlis]

Well done Andy!

[Smitty]

Well said, Andy. I agree with your assessment of the current conventions of kilt-wearing.

I fall somewhere in the middle myself. I have a traditional kilt and a Utilikilt, and will wear either depending on the situation. I prefer the traditional, as I think it looks better, but it's not always appropriate, especially in summer, or for any activities that I think will get it dirty or torn- it's far too expensive for that!

I believe that for the kilt to continue to remain relevant, both the THW and CFW approaches need to be embraced (or at least tolerated).
THW has the benefit of maintaining long tradition and connection to the past, and separates the kilt from the skirt or other non-bifurcated garment, as well as being perfect for more formal occasions.
CFW helps the kilt be perceived as a garment that is acceptable for everyday wear, both current and fashionable.
As both the wear and perception of kilts continue to evolve, I think a broader, more accepting view will become the norm.

[McMurdo]

Great post Andy, well said indeed.

[Peter C.]

Well said Andy. I do agree for all places outside of Scotland. Probably wouldn't work in Scotland though.

Peter