I have read with interest a number of threads that tackle the issues of whether kilts ought or ought not to be worn in traditional highland style and what makes a kilt a “real” kilt.

On my morning run I was thinking about it and it strikes me that on Xmarks, generally, there are two modalities of kilt wearing. The first, for arguments sake, let’s call “traditional highland wear (THW).” The second, “casual fashion wear (CFW).”

It seems a lot of debate occurs around the interface of these two modalities.

THW is characterized by a deep respect for the tradition and history of the kilt, and hence of Scotland. It is a more formal style and whether, dress, semi-casual or casual has distinctiveness about it (type of jacket, hose, shoes etc.). It is “traditional” in that it pays great respect to the way the kilt has been worn in the last 100 years or so with regard to style of kilt, jackets etc. Though even here, there have been subtle changes (number of buttons on kilt jackets, width of jacket collars etc). THW is the choice for Burn’s Nights, Weddings, Highland Games (as a spectator in tweed jacket) and the Pipe band.

CFW, though at times stylish enough to mass muster at any non-Highland event is a more free way of wearing a kilt. It is less concerned about highland traditions and focuses more on contemporary style, comfort etc. CFW is more innovative (UKs, Sports Kilts). CFW marks an important step in the evolution of kilt wearing. If kilt wearing is to become something more than novelty for a few as an everyday garment for males, it seems to me that CFW is an extraordinarily important development.

A personal reflection. I teach at the State University of New York. Faculty dress code is fairly relaxed. (In fact even the dressiest of occasions would amount to little more than “smart casual” in up-State NY). I happen to love Harris Tweed and own a number of jackets. I wear one occasionally to teach. But, I have to say that Harris Tweed jackets appeal to “men of a certain age” and are quite rare on campus. This would not have been the case 50 years ago when most male faculty would wear a similar jacket. Tweed jackets for less formal kilt wearing also hail from that period of fashion history. To suggest that for CFW tweed jacket is always best seems to lock kilt-wearing into a bygone age. We may look with great affection on that age, but to fit into contemporary society kilt-wearing needs to evolve with it. I have a beautiful Harris Tweed kilt jacket and vest. So for formal events (graduations convocations etc) I wear the kilt in THW, though as far as THW goes, informally (tweeds). When I wear the kilt for CFW it is with hose up (winter) down (spring/fall) no hose summer (far too hot) with shoes, sandals, boots, and shirt, t-shirt, fleece or whatever suits the occasion best. Even casual THW would not be appropriate on a typical NY summer’s day.

When THW is required it would be odd for someone to dress as for CFW. On a warm day in the state park, THW (even informally) is not best attire for gorge walking!

Whether you prefer THW or CFW or (like me both) enjoy your kilt! I, for one, am glad of the current renaissance in kilt-wearing.

Cheers!