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Thread: Kilt belt

  1. #1
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    Kilt belt

    I have a very good quality belt made of bridle leather. Problem is that it's so thick that it doesn't want to fold flat where it reverses at the main buckle. Considering soaking and clamping but don't want to ruin it. Anybody come across a similar problem?

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    I've heard of similar problems, and it seems like soaking and clamping would work, so long as you make sure that the clamp you use will not add a feature to your belt. Also, after soaking and drying, you'll probably want to hit the whole belt with plenty of neatsfoot oil... that will restore flexibility to the leather.

    ...come to think of it, you might be able to just use a lot of oil on the turnback point, perhaps in conjunction with clamping, to achieve a flatter effect.

    ...just my two cents, and I'm certainly no more than a rank amature at leather working.

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    Is the thickness of the belt the same the entire length? On my belts I thin (skive) the leather on the last couple feet to allow it to turn back on itself easily. Perhaps a shoe repair shop could skive the belt for you or a horse tack store?

  4. #4
    Paul Henry is offline Membership Revoked for repeated rule violations.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Ross View Post
    I've heard of similar problems, and it seems like soaking and clamping would work, so long as you make sure that the clamp you use will not add a feature to your belt. Also, after soaking and drying, you'll probably want to hit the whole belt with plenty of neatsfoot oil... that will restore flexibility to the leather.

    ...come to think of it, you might be able to just use a lot of oil on the turnback point, perhaps in conjunction with clamping, to achieve a flatter effect.

    ...just my two cents, and I'm certainly no more than a rank amature at leather working.
    I'd be very careful about using plenty of neatsfoot oil on a belt that would come in contact with a kilt, to be honest, I'd probably never advise neatsfoot oil at all, there are much better alternatives,I'd certainly recommend skiving the leather, it's a much better way of solving the problem without any of hte adverse effects of neatsfoot oil

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    Quote Originally Posted by paulhenry View Post
    I'd be very careful about using plenty of neatsfoot oil on a belt that would come in contact with a kilt, to be honest, I'd probably never advise neatsfoot oil at all, there are much better alternatives,I'd certainly recommend skiving the leather, it's a much better way of solving the problem without any of hte adverse effects of neatsfoot oil
    ...thinking about it, I personally have never used a kilt belt of the design that turns back on itself (thus puting the "good side", where the neatsfoot oil would be, in contact with the kilt), so I forgot about the idea of the oil contacting wool.

    ...moral of the story is go with the advice of the experts!

    EDIT: The only drawback of neatsfoot oil that I've ever heard of or experienced is that it darkens leather (not an issue with black leather), and when you're expecting that it can actually be a positive thing. Are there other major drawbacks that I should be aware of, that aren't inherent in all oil products?

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    Paul Henry is offline Membership Revoked for repeated rule violations.
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    I work with quality vegetable tanned leathers, which I hope will last for many years,perhaps even hundreds.So I have to be careful about what I use, each of my suppliers suggests that I don't use NFO, for several reasons, it can take a long time to dry, staying sticky it can actually attract more dust and dirt,and there is the inevitable offset onto other substrates, on heavy duty harness and tack , it's not so much of problem.It is often used on old leathers to soften and make more flexible, but on some old leather it can actually agravate the problem.
    I know it's been used for years beyond reckoning , but I'd suggest a look at Fiebing's website where they have all sorts of products for leather care

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    Just out of curiosity, what kind of animal is a "neat" and why do they only make oil out of its feet? <grin>
    Mark Stephenson
    Region 5 Commissioner (OH, MI, IN, IL, WI, MN, IA, KY), Clan MacTavish USA
    Cincinnati, OH
    [I]Be alert - the world needs more lerts[/I]

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    Paul Henry is offline Membership Revoked for repeated rule violations.
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    Cattle!

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    ...and they make it out of fat from the leg portion so it will be liquid at room temperature! Because cattle have skinny legs, the fat in them must essentially have a "lower melting point" so that it will not stiffen up on the cow when it gets cold outside.

    @Paul: Thanks for the intel, good sir! I guess I'm old fashioned, but I've been using the stuff on all of my belts, most of my sporrans, and anything I make myself for quite some time, with no ill effects yet... though I certainly see your point about it taking a long time to dry and attracting fuzzies in the mean time!

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    NF Oil

    The problem with modern NFO is that it's not. A great percentage of it is patrolium based. Brake fluid etc. It soaks into the leather fast but is NOT all natural like the old days.

    When I make saddles I may use a bit to begin with but then tel people to use other oils like even Virgin olive oil. darkens the leather less and doesn't rot the thread as quickly. Poeple that oil most time oil too much. It makes the leather squishy and sloppy.

    Care for you leather just enough and then stop. Leather should not be oily just oiled and then used and used. Don't over care.

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