Looking for a definitive answers to the following questions:

1. The waist measurement on the tag of a UK MoD-contract kilt: is this the smallest setting? the middle setting? or the outside setting of the belts?

1a. An RRS kilt: same answer?

1b. An older, say ASH or BW kilt: same answer?

2. For those who've acquired such a kilt and have some experience, what would you say would be the ideal stock size for approx. 35" kilt waist, 39 1/2" hips, and a height of 5' 9 1/2"? (I do know that these measurements are on the larger end of the [historic] spectrum!) On the face of it, I would assume either an 86cm (33.8") or 92cm (~36"). My preference would be for the kilt to be set to the interior most holes (or plus 1).

Bottom-line here: I looking for a Government (and Government sett) kilt, and the manifold uncertainties coupled with international shipping is killing me. None of the military surplus shops seem to know a thing about kilts. Help me kilt geeks!