Material Choice ?

**sandman** · 21st October 06, 10:52 AM

I'm a bit new here and during my wanderings thru the various messages and threads I have passed by a Material & Properties chart. I can't find it again does anyone know where is it hidden, the search function isn't helping?
The chart listed the various materials, common weights and the material properties.
Listed qualities were the ability to hold a pleat/crease was pilling an issue with the fabric etc.
As a first timer this forum has lots of great information but it is a bit overwhelming to get all the various choices sorted out.
Thanks

**Barb T** · 21st October 06, 01:01 PM

Hi Sandman,

I don't know where the chart is, either, but I can give you a little info about wool:

100% new wool worsted, twill weave: this is the traditional fabric used for kilts because it is has a hard finish and a somewhat stiff hand. It doesn't pill. Here's some info on commonly-available weights:

16 oz (commonly called heavy weight): this is the heaviest wool that is commonly used for kilts and is woven with a kilting selvedge (i.e., needs no hem). It swings great and holds a good crease. Not quite bomb-proof, but close. My personal favorite. Tends to have large setts (more than 7", sometimes over 12").

13-14 oz (commonly called medium weight): also used for a man's kilt and is also commonly, though not always, woven with a kilting selvedge. Not as substantial-looking and feeling as 16 oz, but still makes a nice kilt. Need to take more care to keep it from wrinkling.

11-12 oz (commonly called light weight or light-medium weight): typically woven without a kilting selvedge (i.e., needs to be hemmed). Very commonly used for dance competition kilts (less weight to leap around in) and is available in literally dozens of dress tartans, as well as some regular tartans. Doesn't hold a press as well as heavier tartans. Tends to have small setts (4-6"). Personally, I think it's a bit light for a man's kilt.

10 oz: this is suitable for tartan trews or tartan shirts, but it is too light weight for a kilt.

Wool saxony: has a soft hand and a somewhat fuzzy surface. Common in American fabric stores. Pills. But it's cheap (well, sometimes it is - at least it's not typically as expensive as kilting tartan).

Hope that helps!

Barb