Sett or stripe?

[canawler]

This question could potentially fit into several forum categories so I am posting here for max. exposure.

What are the general guidelines that our kiltmakers consider when deciding if a given tartan should be pleated to the sett or a stripe?

I realize that what one person likes, another will not but there has to be something to look for: size of sett, dominant horizontal or vertical lines, certain colors, etc.
(If you need a tartan for illustration purposes, I am planning on a kilt in the Keith tartan )

[Raptor]

I'm definitely NOT a kiltmaker, so this is based purely on what I've been told/read/worked out over the years, but I've always assumed that "to the stripe" is based on the prominent vertical stripe, & is considered "military" or "regimental" pleating, while "to the sett" shows the entire pattern & is viewed as civilian. Mind you, in my own Gordon, I far prefer the military pleat.

[cessna152towser]

I'm inclined to agree with Raptor. As far as I know, pleated to the stripe is the general rule for a military kilt and pleated to the sett is more usual for a clan kilt, though there will be exceptions. When I was permitted to buy a Royal Air Force kilt from the RAF's official kiltmaker he said that he normally pleated them to the stripe for servicemen, but that as my father, rather than myself, had served in the force, he would pleat mine to the sett as a civilian kilt.

[mddock58]

Take a copy of a pic of the pattern and visualize what you like. Cut and paste it together if you have a graphics app that can do that, or when you get the fabric, pleat it as many different ways to the stripe, and to the sett, and choose your favorite.

[canawler]

I'm not really sure how to ask what I'm looking for. I know what pleating to the sett and stripe means and that the military used stripe but what I want to know is what features specifically do you look for in the tartan that indicate whether it would look good pleated a certain way. All tartans look good pleated to the sett but only some look good to the stripe. As an example, when I ordered a grey granite tartan kilt from USAkilts and I asked about pleating, it was recommended that I go with the sett (and I am sure this was the right choice.) What about that tartan makes it unsuitable to be pleated to the stripe (or no stripe?) I ask this as a general question for times when you don't have the material in front of you and you don't have a graphics editor (or the knowledge to use one) to experiment with.

[canawler]

Bye the way, is there a recommended graphics editor that is easy to use for such a task?

[ccga3359]

I would think is there a dominant stripe that stands out more than others? A yellow would be more effective than a red. I'd also look at what is being hidden in the pleat as when you are swishing a lighter stripe hidden in the pleat is exposed for dramatic effect. I don't think that there is really a set(t) answer to your question. For example the recent US Army tartan that USAK made has two yellow stripes very close together. To me this might be too busy looking, but if you look at the recent postings it did work. Check out http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23840's thread in regarding this forementioned tartan, his thoughts and the replies. It is a very interesting read. When all is said and done it probably is wise to listen to your kilt makers opinion.

[ccga3359]

Also check out this thread.

[jordanjm]

I think it is completely a matter of taste. I asked for my kilt to be pleated to stripe, but to let the kilt maker choose the stripe.

[canawler]

ccga, thanks. Those two threads pretty much answered my questions. The funny thing is I now remember reading both of them when they first appeared. I would still like to know what program everyone was using to visually mock up the pleating??