How do I prevent the fell from coming un-stitched?

**Kilted KT** · 22nd May 07, 05:28 AM

I'm not on my third kilt where the center pleat is coming un-sewn. Can anyone give me any ideas as to what I can do differently so I don't tear the fell stitching on my kilts?

It has happened on a crappy ebay kilt, my SWK MacTavish standard and my SWK heavyweight irish saffron.

any help would be greatly appreciated!

(not wearing a kilt is not an option..I'm working hard to be 100% kilted)

**RockyR** · 22nd May 07, 06:26 AM

1. have it custom made so that the waist and hips are angled to fit your body (sounds like your hips are bigger than what the kilt is made for).

2. keep the hip strap loose so that it puts less pressure on the bottom of the fell when you sit.

**Kilted KT** · 22nd May 07, 06:29 AM

Originally Posted by RockyR

1. have it custom made so that the waist and hips are angled to fit your body (sounds like your hips are bigger than what the kilt is made for).

2. keep the hip strap loose so that it puts less pressure on the bottom of the fell when you sit.

thanks a ton! I've got a hand-made scotish MacTavish that I really didn't want to ruin...now I know how!

**fluter** · 22nd May 07, 12:43 PM

I have a similar shape. Currently 34" waist, 41" hips, hopefully in a year it'll be more like 32/39 but the ratio remains.

Do any hip-endowed Stillwater customers have experience/advice to offer?

I have a SWK economy, which looks like it will work out fine as the fell is not stitched down. I'm contemplating sewing it by hand to give a little taper.

The Hunting McLeod SWK standard has been calling to me, though. Wonder whether I could get into it without heavy tailoring? The photos make the SWK standard and heavyweight look as though they are cut for someone a lot more tubular than I am.

I did email SWK, and Jerry replied within about 10 milleseconds. But he didn't say exactly what kind of ratio their target is, just might be a problem and I could try one on their usual terms. Which is a great deal; I'm impressed enough with the economy to give it a shot...

Originally Posted by RockyR

1. have it custom made so that the waist and hips are angled to fit your body (sounds like your hips are bigger than what the kilt is made for).

I'm taking that excellent advice: I should be in Rocky's waiting list.

**Skweres** · 22nd May 07, 07:05 AM

yeah, my sportkilt started to do the same, but on the side, i just did an easy sew job at the top of the pleat

**Tartan Hiker** · 22nd May 07, 07:36 AM

Also, those kilts do not have a canvas liner. Without that, the straps are pulling directly on the pleat stitches, which they are not designed to hold. Add a piece of substantial fabric (cotton canvas, washed several times in hot water, works fine) that fastens to the inside of the kilt under the strap attachment locations at both ends, and is loosely attached to the inside of the pleats in between where the straps are sewn down. Sew right through the straps to the canvas This serves as a sort of suspension system, so that the straps are pulling on the canvas instead of the pleats themselves, and the canvas will not stretch. This will stop this problem, and only takes a few minutes to do. The canvas strip only needs to be about 2" wide.
Visualize the head band in a construction hard hat. It grabs your head and the "helmet" just goes along for the ride. That's how the kilt should work.
I've added liners like this to all my "e-kilts" and have had no problems since. I also use them in my X-kilts that are made of lighter fabric (like PV)

**Kilted KT** · 22nd May 07, 07:42 AM

Originally Posted by Tartan Hiker

Also, those kilts do not have a canvas liner. Without that, the straps are pulling directly on the pleat stitches, which they are not designed to hold. Add a piece of substantial fabric (cotton canvas, washed several times in hot water, works fine) that fastens to the inside of the kilt under the strap attachment locations at both ends, and is loosely attached to the inside of the pleats in between where the straps are sewn down. Sew right through the straps to the canvas This serves as a sort of suspension system, so that the straps are pulling on the canvas instead of the pleats themselves, and the canvas will not stretch. This will stop this problem, and only takes a few minutes to do. The canvas strip only needs to be about 2" wide.
Visualize the head band in a construction hard hat. It grabs your head and the "helmet" just goes along for the ride. That's how the kilt should work.
I've added liners like this to all my "e-kilts" and have had no problems since. I also use them in my X-kilts that are made of lighter fabric (like PV)

that is one hell of an idea! I'll do that and post my results. I've got some duck cloth I'll get working on tonight!

**Tartan Hiker** · 22nd May 07, 07:44 AM

You will be very pleased, I guarantee!

**Kilted KT** · 22nd May 07, 07:45 AM

Originally Posted by Tartan Hiker

You will be very pleased, I guarantee!

being that I'm off for my survival trip in a week, I'll have to get my SWK MacTavish fixed up this weekend.

**Kid Cossack** · 25th May 07, 01:02 PM

Fluter:

Two observations: Jerry is great for off the rack kilts, shipping and service is remarkable; oh yeah and that Rocky hepcat sews up a mean kilt, but man oh man Kelly is the truffles!