X-Kilt Construction Question

[KiltedBrewer]

Alright, I've finally got a sewing machine and all the materials I need to make my first x-kilt. I'm the sort of person who likes to do a lot of mental rehearsal before I start anything new, and I've come up against a part of the instructions that I can't quite figure out.

When you a-shape the left edge of the over apron, won't the fabric of the rest of the kilt tend to be lower than the hem of the apron due to the angled fold? It seems to me that even if the pleat under the over apron is wider at the top, the kilt won't be straight. Will I have to make adjustments to keep the hem of the finished kilt straight?

It's been something like 20 years since I've done any sewing, so please feel free to tell me if I'm concerned over nothing.

Thanks,
David

[fluter]

When you a-shape the left edge of the over apron, won't the fabric of the rest of the kilt tend to be lower than the hem of the apron due to the angled fold? It seems to me that even if the pleat under the over apron is wider at the top, the kilt won't be straight. Will I have to make adjustments to keep the hem of the finished kilt straight?

Yes, it will. Depending on the degree of shaping, you may or may not choose to compensate for it.

1. You can adjust the hem. For good info, see Barb T's write-up: The little bits of hem...

2. You can adjust the top of the deep pleat by attaching the inner fold just a bit higher at the waistline.

[sydnie7]

Just keep the top edges even, and the hem will be even.

Some people will tell you to pull that big pleat edge UP above the top apron edge -- by 1/4 inch or so at the folded edge -- to help keep the pleat hem from showing beneath the apron hem. You would do that just before sewing around the top edge, prior to attaching the waistband. It's something you can pin in place and see if you like -- I think it makes the lower left edge of the top apron curl, myself.

Have fun!

[Alan H]

AS fluter and sydnie7 have told you, you are entirely correct. I compensate (usually) by making the hem a bit deeper inside the under-apron pleat.

You can also just blow it off, this is a quick, easy contemporary kilt, not a traditional. You've realized there's an issue at that point. You've learned something about kiltmaking, and are a little step closer to understanding what goes into making "real" kilt or a first-class contemporary garment......the authors goal is accomplished.

[Pleater]

I am not sure - what I do might be entirely different to the X kilt method - but what I do is - measuring at the edge of the apron at the waistband, take 4 inches of material and create an infolding 2 inches deep at the waist and tapering to nothing - almost like a shaping dart, but made on the edge of the apron, the top of the infold will drop downwards, I press the edge of the apron to set it into shape.

Now I make the under apron pleat. If I make this deep pleat with the top edge level with the apron it tends to roll outwards, and by lifting it so a narrow triangle of fabric shows above the waist line it is pulled into shape and lies flat, folding at the proper place. The adjustment is only slight but it makes a difference to how the kilt looks - and it drives me to distraction if it is not right so I have to do it.

If I was to make a box pleat then, I think the edge of the apron would abutt the side of the first panel, so the under apron pleat would be simply an extended inner fold, and the joining of the apron and first pleat would look very like all the other box pleats from the outside of the kilt.

Does this help or is it just more confusing?

I am so busy with my reverse Kingussie style kilts that I have not had time to make an X kilt nor even study the instructions, but I think that the edge of the apron and the under apron pleat are a standard bit of fabric engineering.

Anne the Pleater