Pressing systems

[Barb T]

Hi all,

In the thread that I just posted on the progress of Hamish's 100th kilt, I included a couple of pictures of pressing the kilt. Several people PMd me with questions, and I thought I'd pull out the useful kiltmaking items and start a post here.

In both pictures below, you'll notice that the ironing board is set really low. I'm a short person (5'3"), and, if the ironing board is set at its highest (which is about my waist level), I can't get my weight behind the iron. So, I lower the ironing board until it's below the level of the tops of my thighs.

The following picture shows my pressing system. A couple of you were aghast that I was pressing directly on the wool with my iron, so I thought I'd better explain!!



After visiting the Wizard at Freedom Kilts a couple of years ago and trying out the pressing system that he has, I hustled home and bought one for myself. It's a boiler system, and you can see the black hose past my right elbow that connects the iron to the boiler. I also ordered the extra teflon sole plate cover (teflon iron shoe) for the iron, which lets you press directly on wool without a press cloth.

Although the pressing system was expensive, I've saved its cost many times over. I can press a kilt in 1/3 the time that it used to take me, I can actually see what I'm doing, and the quality of the press is much better. And, with the steam boiler system, a kilt doesn't get as wet as it used to when I pressed with a spray bottle and press cloth. Here's the system I have.

http://www.bestvacuum.com/reliable-i300-steam-iron.html

If you go to the web site above, you'll see the teflon iron shoe in the lower right inset picture. I Googled "teflon sole plate" and "teflon iron shoe" and found this description:

http://westchestersewing.com/consew/...hoe/index.html

And Joann's has one that they claim will fit any iron:

http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/p...PRODID=prd3110

I haven't tried this particular one, but, for under $10, it sure would be worth testing out with some scraps of tartan. If you read the reviews listed on the web site, it sounds like people are really happy with it. In fact, I'm going to order a couple for my regular iron.

Another person asked what tool I was using in the following picture (and in this pic, you can also see the pressing system better, with the metal boiler behind the ironing board and the stretchy spring that holds the white iron shoe onto the iron):



The wooden tool is called a "tailor's clapper", and it is used to force the steam into the fabric while pushing down with something hard and cool to set whatever you're pressing.

Any piece of wood would work for clapping pleats - this one is just set up for tailoring and has edges and points for narrow edges and is set up to have a handy "handle". If you use a piece of lumber, just make sure it doesn't have pitchy spots, though.....

[Tartan Tess]

Thanks Barb. Now I know what to ask Santa for this christmas.
New kiltmaking toys!

[sydnie7]

Here's another pressing option: the Eurosteam "Evolution" iron LINK

The boiler system is built into the body of the iron. I got a significant discount on mine by purchasing from the distributor at a sewing/quilting/crafts show vs. ordering online.

Clappers are not as easy to find [edit: see Barb's links below]. I traced one and have been meaning to make it up from that pattern. Meanwhile, I have two antique irons (the heat-em-on-the-woodstove kind) that I move along in the path of the steam iron. If you have, or can find, an older iron that has some weight to it, you could do the same thing with it -- just leave it cold and use it as a weight. This is not the same as a clapper, but helps to keep the wool pressed down while it cools (which is what really sets the edge). Hairdressers will tell you a similar thing -- setting hair is all about curling it, heating it, and letting it cool completely before removing the curling device.

[Barb T]

Hard to find?? I just did a quick Google search on "tailor's clapper" and found the following that look at lot like mine:

http://sewtrue.com/Store/POINT-PRESS...PER-P2302.html
http://sewingworkshop.com/index.php/...3/prevstart/0/

[sydnie7]

Barb's right, as usual -- must have been some other "tailor" product I had in mind, that I had searched for online and not found/not easily found. Forgive the senior moment!

Six Degrees of Kevin Bacon note: you'll see a similar tank system in use during the Kinloch Anderson video in this thread.

[longhuntr74]

Barb...I'm approaching the pressing stage on that kilt I started...what was it...like 3 months ago...maybe 4?? Great timing on this thread!!! Can you show a picture of a pressing ham? I seem to recall you saying you can buy them at Joann Fabrics...I hope so...haven't been to look yet.

Also...I'm even closer to the hair canvas stage...any revised list of vendors for that?

[Barb T]

Here's a pressing ham at Joann fabrics:

http://www.joann.com/joann/search/se..._requestid=947

Doesn't say online only, so maybe the stores have them.

B Black and Son is my favorite source for canvas:

http://www.bblackandsons.com/sewing-...-68_80_92.html

Just be sure to get the heavy weight.

BTW - when are you going to come down for a vist from that place in the North Country (which I still think of as Camp Drum, because that's what it was called while I was growig up)? You should come down to the Great American Irish Festival this weekend at the Herkimer County Fair Grounds:

http://www.gaif.us/

[longhuntr74]

Here's a pressing ham at Joann fabrics:

http://www.joann.com/joann/search/se..._requestid=947

Doesn't say online only, so maybe the stores have them.

B Black and Son is my favorite source for canvas:

http://www.bblackandsons.com/sewing-...-68_80_92.html

Just be sure to get the heavy weight.

BTW - when are you going to come down for a vist from that place in the North Country (which I still think of as Camp Drum, because that's what it was called while I was growig up)? You should come down to the Great American Irish Festival this weekend at the Herkimer County Fair Grounds:

http://www.gaif.us/

Maybe I should ask you when you're gonna quit going on vacations to Iceland and such!!! LOL. I know you were there for work, but I gotta say that your overseas work locations are significantly nicer than mine!!!

Unfortunately, my wife has planned a party for Saturday...is the festival just Saturday or both Saturday and Sunday? I'm hoping I don't have to go to work on Sunday. If not this weekend, I'll plan a trip in the next month or so...I'll hit you on email for your contact info so I can coordinate it with you! Thanks for the answers to my questions...you're so helpful...as always!!!

[fluter]

Here's a pressing ham at Joann fabrics...
Doesn't say online only, so maybe the stores have them.

My local one did. For a good time, take a pressing ham to the register, and see whether the clerk knows what it is.

Black also has pressing supplies

The clapper is supposed to apply pressure and speed cooling. Sydnie's flat-irons do the same thing: there's plenty of thermal mass there. In fact did we not discuss using a brick covered with heavy duty aluminum foil? Then the clapper supposedly pulls out the humidity, too, thus speeding cooling.

I press on a table, which also is my sewing table. To press the pleats, I let the fell drape off the end. A steam iron, spray bottle, and pressing cloth works for me. However Barb is right about the moisture in the kilt afterward.

Thanks to Barb and Steve for a look at the professional rigs.

[Dixiecat]

In fact did we not discuss using a brick covered with heavy duty aluminum foil?

Bricks are good, but I don't like the aluminum foil idea unless you cover that with a thick wool. It would get hot and wet if you didn't.

My pressing tools consist of a sleeve roll made from a thick dowel rolled in wool and covered with muslin, June Tailor clapper, hardwood clapper, tailors ham and a 2x10 wool tube filled with buckshot. And of course my Rowenta steam generator iron:
http://www.joann.com/joann/catalog/p...zprd_08577603a