What about the waistcoat?

[Whidbey78]

After a bit of thought I have elected to begin hunting for a new (thrift store or clearance-rack)jacket to modify. My old ones are getting a bit tight across the shoulders. It will be a dark blue or black jacket in either a crail or breamer style. I've modified several to wear with a kilt and am pretty comfortable with the process, and more importantly how to pick one that lends itself to modification. This time around I am going to add a new item...a waistcoat.

My question is three-fold.

First, where should the bottom of the waistcoat be and how should it be shaped? I wear the top of my kilts directly across my navel due to a somewhat odd build...like all of my Mother's kin I'm large around the chest and shoulder and round at the waist. No gut, but my waist is as round as a bucket. I also have arms that are a little long for my height...6 foot 2 inch wingspan, but I'm 5 foot 10 inches(and hence have a heck of a time buying shirts and jackets). I wear the kilt slightly low to give the illusion of a balanced build(I also wear pants a little high for the same effect. I don't know if this will matter in selection and fit for a waistcoat, but figured it wouldn't hurt to include it.

Second, if I have to modify the waistcoat to have the bottom properly placed, what should I look for as far as shape, fit, sizing, button placement, length, pockets, etc.?

Lastly, though I would like a matched set for dressier occasions I know the likelihood of finding a jacket and waistcoat set that will be suited to modding might not be good, so what are your recommendations for material and color choices? I have finally let go of the idea that every article has to be perfectly color coordinated, especially for day-wear and less-than-black-tie events and think that a contrasting waistcoat can look pretty sharp...done right of course.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

[Chas]

I would recommend a straight bottomed waistcoat, rather than points. It might allow you to choose the best height if you are concerned about a balanced look. Points, I've found, tend to be either very sharp or very shallow, but in the end give the impression of pointing down-wards.

Regards

Chas

[Mikilt]

I don't know if this is necessarily a good approach. I haven't actually tried it yet. I bought a thrift store jacket that I intend to convert to a Prince Charlie. I have read the threads that say such conversions can turn out wonky, but I am going to try anyway.

As for the waistcoat, I am a gentleman of substance and the jacket doesn't fit me in the waist. I intend to follow the lead of my local kilt rental shop and "sew in" the front and lapels of the waistcoat. This should give me the look that I want with the fit that I need.

I am not sure how I am going to do this yet. Perhaps I will cut out shapes from newspaper pages and tape them to the inside front of the jacket until I have the shape that I want, then use that paper as my pattern/template.

How will I know which shape is the correct one? Google Image search.

[thescot]

I would suggest that you don your kilt and a belt--bear with me here--and fit the bottom of the waistcoat so that it would cover the entier belt if you wore the belt under your waistcoat--which you won't! (Do not wear a belt under a waistcoat; it will buldge and look bad.)

The waistcoat should fit down well over the top of your kilt; as you move and reach, it will mostly continue to cover your shirt. The top of your sporran will still be a couple inches or more below the bottom of the waistcoat.

As to the bottom: I also prefer the look of a straight cut as it allow for the bottom of the waistcoat to reach the prefered spot without haning down further. Take a look at the many photos of the Duke of Rothesay on this thread: http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...-photos-49608/

I heartily recommend emulating that look.

[Lyle1]

I think the bottom of the waistcoat would normally cover the belt, if you are wearing one.

I have a suggestion for getting a waistcoat to work with your build, and it could be made to work with both kilts and trousers. The dress pattern companies sell patterns for waistcoats for men. Most of the patterns allow for several design choices in one pattern. One of the options involves an adjustable neckline that allows you to control the length of the waistcoat. Basically, the front pieces of a backless waistcoat are not sewn together at the neckline. The top of each front piece narrows down to a strip; by varying where you connect the two strips, you control where the bottom of the waistcoat falls. The strips can be connected with Velcro, buttons, or a buckle.

[Whidbey78]

I think the bottom of the waistcoat would normally cover the belt, if you are wearing one.

I have a suggestion for getting a waistcoat to work with your build, and it could be made to work with both kilts and trousers. The dress pattern companies sell patterns for waistcoats for men. Most of the patterns allow for several design choices in one pattern. One of the options involves an adjustable neckline that allows you to control the length of the waistcoat. Basically, the front pieces of a backless waistcoat are not sewn together at the neckline. The top of each front piece narrows down to a strip; by varying where you connect the two strips, you control where the bottom of the waistcoat falls. The strips can be connected with Velcro, buttons, or a buckle.

That might be a good thing to try. I've seen adjustable ones from tux rentals. I'm not fond of the look without a jacket, though I realize that these particular waistcoats are really not intended to be worn without the jacket. I'd like the option to wear it without the jacket and still look right. Though an adjustable unit would be good to figure out exactly where it works best for me.

I have to agree that a straight cut looks better with the kilt. Beside that the points can't curl up if they aren't there, and I'm thinking it just wouldn't look right with a kilt jacket anyhow. I have found a few pics of some with curved bottoms which might look okay with the curved cutout of the jacket...I'll have to ponder this.

Thescot, the first five or so pics in the thread you linked to are exactly what I'm looking for and spot-on for where I want to get. It appears his waistcoat has points in some of the photos, but the overall look is exactly what I had pictured. Thanks...now I have a visual aid! Oh, and there is no way I'd wear a belt with the waistcoat. I've seen people do it and there is either a bulge or the belt shows and it's just too busy for my taste.

Any suggestions on materials if it doesn't match the jacket? Also, which is more versatile of the three and five button varieties?

[Squeaky McMurdo]

Or....you could get a longer jacket that fits you otherwise and you would have enough to make a matching waistcoat out of the scraps. The back would of course have to be made out of the lining material if you go that route.

--Chelsea McMurdo--

[Pyper]

I prefer points.

There's a photo of the three winners at the Glenfiddich two years ago here. The two on the left are both wearing jackets with waistcoats, but you can see there is a fair bit of difference between the two cuts. I prefer the shorter look for wearing under a jacket, but maybe the longer one looks better when worn without.