(trad) kilt length vs body type

[Calico]

This is two questions combined. I only have one kilt at this point, an 8yd made-to-measure.



For ME, it is too long (24.5"). I was measured from my real waist to the top of my knee, but because I have a short torso it looks like I have it up almost to my armpits. And my knees still don't show enough in my opinion (and my wife's).

I think it should be 2-3" shorter (and then worn slightly lower). That would make the buckle the midpoint between the bottom of the hem and the top of the shirt.

As an example, this recent photo

of a games gathering shows fellows with better proportions. We'll just pick on the fellow standing on the left for this question. He looks (more than I do) like the kilt below the belt balances with the shirt above the belt. Except his knees don't show enough, either.

So,
1: Should I specify a shorter length next time?
2: Do most of us wear our kilts too long (not show enough knee?)

Thanks

[azwildcat96]

I'm not sure I understand the question regarding the proportion of the shirt and the kilt???

As I understand it, a traditional kilt is worn about 2” (or about 2-3 finger widths) above the navel, and that the bottom of the kilt should be between the middle to the top of the knee.

Also, from pictures it is sometimes hard to tell if the kilt is the proper length, as the angle of the photo can be deceiving.

[MacIsaac]

I have similar questions. I am a particularly high-waisted fellow. High enough in fact, that when my kilt was measured, the tailor recommended a 1 1/2" rise as opposed to the standard 2" rise as he felt a two inch rise would make it look like I am wearing it around my armpits!

Even with the 1 1/2" rise, I still feel like it is awfully high. I need to wear mine closer to 4 inches above my navel to get the bottom somewhere between the top and middle of my knee.

Generally, the vissual issue goes away with a jacket or waistcoat, but with just a shirt, I too feel like it is riding high.

Maybe just something you live with when high-waisted?

[Cygnus]

My understanding of kilt fitting is that it should be worn anywhere from level with the navel to two inches above it. I am also a bit short on torso and so wear my kilt only one inch above my navel rather than the usual two.

From what I've seen at games and other events, I'd actually say that most folks wear their kilts too low, not too high. Most men wear their trousers a bit low (or really low in some cases) and this seems to be spreading to kilt-wearing as well.

I do agree with you that your kilt looks a bit on the long side (though it's probably sitting at just the right spot). While it's not "traditional" to hem a kilt, you might consider having it done. I know that Lady Chrystel hems a lot of her kilts, and Barb Tewksbury has posted on how effective and unnoticeable a good hemming can be on a kilt.

[Ryan Ross]

Personally, it looks to me like your kilt is pretty much being worn at the right spot, and that it certainly isn't "too long" (though it may be longer than you personally would like it). Some of us have a longer torso, and some of us have longer legs, so the kilt will look a bit different on different folks because of that.

To my eye, you look quite well turned out. That said, if you want to experiment with how the kilt might look worn at different heights, you might do some experimenting in the comfort of your own home. Use a mirror or a camera, sittuate your kilt at various different heights (using your belt to help out if need be and not worrying about the overall length), put your sporran on with the belts at various heights, and see which looks and feels best to you. All the while, take everything with a grain of salt, knowing that you'll likely be wearing the kilt in a position that it was not meant to sit.

Once you figure out which height looks best to you (if indeed that height turns out to be other than the height at which you currently wear it), you can start trying to figure out what length you like at the n ew height, and then you might have an idea of what to do about kilt number two.

Just an idea.

[Spartan Tartan]

Rules are really more like traditional guidelines. If you want to wear your kilt higher or lower, just be sure to get the "waist" measured at that point. Also, if you want your kilt shorter....order it shorter. I would also be clear about the distance between where you measure your "waist" and the hip (or widest area about your bum).

Most kilt makers want at a minimum three measurements: waist, hip, and length. You give those numbers for the place you want your kilt to be worn. They may suggest where to take your measurements, but if you want it somewhere else....do it how you want. It is YOUR kilt afterall.

Just my 2 cents...

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Your kilt looks fine to me. I can clearly see your knees, so I don't think it is "too long" though I think there is room there for it to possibly be a wee bit shorter if you wanted.

But I don't think it is being worn too high. Looks about right to me.

The kilt is worn at the "natural waist." Feel on your side for that soft area above your hip bone but below your rib cage, where there is no bone. That's your actual waist (regardless of where you may wear your jeans!). The straps and buckles of your kilt should sit right in that area, on the top of your hip bone.

Your kilt may have anywhere from a 2" rise (typical of most civilian kilts) to a 4" rise (typical of military kilts) above this point.

Granted, every man is built a bit different, so a kilt may look like it is being worn a bit higher or lower depending on the individual. But yours looks about right. I wouldn't worry that much about changing anything.

[Geoff Withnell]

You look fine to my eye. Being an engineer and statistician by trade, I measured the proportions from top of shoulder to top of belt, and top of belt to top of knee and top of kilt. You and the gentleman on the left are as close identical as I can measure on the photos. We seldom see ourselves as others see us (I think someone spoke of this).

[ForresterModern]

I think part of your concern over the appearence of the bottom of your kilt as overlapping your knees too much may be an artifact of the angle of the picture (typically taken from 5.5-6 feet) while your kilt hem is at about 18-22 inches from the ground. Add to that the exaggeration of that angle by the effect of the beergut that so many of us (myself most definitely included) have spent years cultivating, which pushes the front apron out even further rom your knees, making them appear even more "covered". (Sorry I am a photographer who figures these kinds of angles innately). I agree with the general consensus that your kilt looks fine in its upper position and relation of the bottom of the kilt to your knees.

jeff

[Ryan Ross]

I think part of your concern over the appearence of the bottom of your kilt as overlapping your knees too much may be an artifact of the angle of the picture (typically taken from 5.5-6 feet) while your kilt hem is at about 18-22 inches from the ground. Add to that the exaggeration of that angle by the effect of the beergut that so many of us (myself most definitely included) have spent years cultivating, which pushes the front apron out even further rom your knees, making them appear even more "covered". (Sorry I am a photographer who figures these kinds of angles innately). I agree with the general consensus that your kilt looks fine in its upper position and relation of the bottom of the kilt to your knees.

jeff

I don't think you could be more right, Jeff.

To illustrate Jeff's point about the relation of build and camera angle while kilting, please view the two pictures below.

They are about the same size, were taken from about the same angle by the same person, and show the same person, belt, sporran, and hose; there have been some alterations to a few of the things pictured, between when the first and second were taken, but , and I can't stress this enough, the kilt is still the exact same length and being worn at the same place in both pictures (and I haven't gotten any taller, either). The bottoms of the knee caps are marked:



As you can see, the camera angle can make you see things that aren't there, under the right circumstances.

EDIT: Credit for the kilt fitting well in the second picture goes to Matt Newsome. If any of you are wondering about his tailoring skills, wonder no more.