Thinking about making my own sleeved waistcoat

[Matt Richards]

Since I have no clue how to use a sewing machine, I've been doing alterations and such with hand stitching everything on some Scottish-style clothing, including a kilt and a pair of cadadh hose. I've gotten somewhat good at it over the last 8 months and was thinking about making a historically accurate 18th century sleeved waistcoat.

I know there are great patterns from places like Reconstructing History, but I was wondering if these patterns are geared towards using sewing machines or if they are easy enough to create with simple hand stitching. Thanks!

[sydnie7]

No reason you can't hand-stitch any pattern, regardless of what the instructions say. Certain fabrics (think ladies' lingerie) might present a challenge, but classic men's tailoring should be a natural.

[longhuntr74]

I'll state the obvious here...Any historically accurate 18th century garment would mandate that it be hand stitched. Many people that make historic clothing for retail purchase cheat with sewing machines on invisible/internal seams...and some even use them for any and all seams. It keeps the price down, but results in a garment that is in the 18th century syle made with modern methods...so I don't know that you'd call it historically accurate. I started out buying clothes from these vendors...but over the years have progressed to making all my own stuff...First, to save money...then, because I found I could make stuff that fit ME better...and finally, I started to get particular about total authenticity...including hand stitching. Like any other hobby (kilting for instance) it has been a journey of learning and appreciation of history and fine arts.

The pattern I used to make my first sleeved waistcoat is the J.P. Ryan one. It's a good pattern, but my caution is that the shoulder cut and chest proportions are based off actual period pieces. That would appear to be a good thing...the problem is that most people in the 21st Century have different proportions and builds than men in the 18th century...so I found that I needed to modify the pattern somewhat to make the chest a bit broader and the shoulders wider. I'll confess that I do have very broad shoulders...someone with a 38-40 inch jacket size might not have the same issues.

When I made my first 100% hand sewn sleeveless waistcoat, I found this site. I used the pattern-plates from it, combined with the lessons and pattern of the JPR pattern, to make my own pattern. This is, hands down, the best site I've ever found for learning about making authentic 18th century clothing. I thought that I knew how to make a square-cut linen shirt...and then I read the instructions on the marquis site and learned a TON about construction, sizing, etc...including the proper body width (that was apparently fairly standard based upon the width of fabric woven at the time).

Hope that helps you!

[Matt Richards]

That's definitely a big help in deciding how to make the measurements work. Now if it weren't so hard to find generic tartan wool ...

[Matt Richards]

I picked up very nice 2 yards of 100% wool Stirling & Bannockburn tartan on eBay for a great price, but alas, it's not enough material for a sleeved waistcoat, so looks like I'll be doing a standard sleeveless one for now!

[Cynthia]

Another link to look over if you haven't seen it yet:
http://www.lacma.org/patterns

edited to add: I also have used the marquise.de site a lot and it's been very handy

Have fun!