Kilt hemming

[T-Bone]

I've read the good, the bad, and the ugly on hemming a kilt, so I am just looking for advice on doing it.
When I got this kilt in 1996, my body shape was a bit different. Back then it fit perfectly, though it was probably still a little too long (I didn't know any different then). Now, it fits well if I wear it about an inch lower. I found this out from wearing it all day. Over the course of the day, it kept slipping down to a more comfortable spot, leaving the bottom covering my knees. So given that it was about an inch too long back in '96 and now it fits lower on my torso, I've decided to put a 2 inch hem on it, traditional or not I don't care as I have other kilts. I would just like to have this one fitting better so that I can wear it more.
I have the hem turned up and pinned. The beauty of the MacDonald modern tartan is that it is pretty much like graph paper. This helped in keeping the edge even.
I do have a question. Should I steam press it before sewing with a blind stitch or stitch it first then press?
Here is what I have done so far:


Tony

[T-Bone]

Also, where should I stitch it? up high close to the selvege(light blue) or through the middle of the turned up hem(yellow), or both?

[davidg]

Also, where should I stitch it? up high close to the selvege(light blue) or through the middle of the turned up hem(yellow), or both?

Up high, close to the selvedge

If the hem has been pinned up without any puckers forming it shouldn't matter whether you press before or after. After stitching it will likely need a press anyway

Just make sure the hemming stitch only catches a few threads on the inside and does not go all the way through to the face of the fabric

[xman]

Stitch first and closer to the blue line than the yellow.

[The Wizard of BC]

I hem kilts using what is called a 'catch stitch'



The stitch through the selvedge is a bit longer and where you stitch into the kilt catch just a couple of threads.

If you use a thread that is slightly darker than the Tartan of your kilt the stitches are invisible on the outside.

Keep your stitches taut but not tight. There should be a small bit of movement to the fabric.

There is no need to pre-press the fold for the hem but you can if it makes it easier for you. You will need to baste and press the hem after sewing anyway.

To keep the hem straight simply use a tape measure and keep the selvedge edge the same distance from any horizontal line of the Tartan.

[T-Bone]

Thanks everyone for the good advice.
Steve, I like that stitch as it allows the selvege to lay flat and not catch and fold down. I hope that made sense...I can see it in my head, but my fingers may not have translated it correctly.
Well, I know what I am doing this long weekend.
Tony

[ChattanCat]

Stitch a herringbone (catch stitch) and then press. Works like a charm.

[Mickey]

The ones that I've done, I press, then blind stitch, then press again.

[Pleater]

Once the hem is sewn, when you fold the pleats the edge of the hem will want to move a little - the visible folds will push the edge out of them, and the folds inside the kilt will require more of the edge as it has to go around the fabric to which is is stitched.

The catch/ herringbone st will allow that to happen.

A standard machine stitched hem tends to look a bit bulkier than a hand sewn one as the machine stitching us rigid and doesn't allow the edge of the hem to move.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[ChattanCat]

Once the hem is sewn, when you fold the pleats the edge of the hem will want to move a little - the visible folds will push the edge out of them, and the folds inside the kilt will require more of the edge as it has to go around the fabric to which is is stitched.

The catch/ herringbone st will allow that to happen.

A standard machine stitched hem tends to look a bit bulkier than a hand sewn one as the machine stitching us rigid and doesn't allow the edge of the hem to move.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

I always baste the hem, then catch/ herringbone stitch, then press. Sorry I forgot the basting as it holds the hem from moving.