Black Cap Toe Oxfords

[CMcG]

So I'm in Hong Kong for school this year and decided to check out MacMillan of Rathdown's suggestion regarding bespoke shoes. I've found a place that makes custom shoes and actually fits my student budget! They apparently don't make a last for each customer but they do get good reviews HERE. They are called Zee's Leatherware & Shoes and they also have a facebook page: http://www.facebook.com/ZeesLeatherCo

I'm looking to get a pair of black cap toe oxfords and am wondering what everyone has to say about the options available for this type of shoes. I'd be wearing them for dressy occasions with either a kilt or a suit, so I'm looking for something traditional but not necessarily conservative. The designs that have been attracting my eye are quite stripped down in terms of detailing. Also, I'll probably ask for a more rounded toe because of my wide feet and because I prefer that to a pointy or chiselled toe.

Here's my question: if you were having dress oxfords made for you, what would you ask for? Pictures of your own shoes or links to manufacturer's websites for examples would be much appreciated.

I'll post some pictures of the styles that I'm leaning towards but I won't include the brand or maker as I don't want to bias people's opinions.

These are the ones my lass likes best so far:




And the others that I also like:

[Father Bill]

I'd be asking that they be made of topgrain, fine-grained hard finish leather in order to take one heckuva shine. I'd also be asking for four eyelets in order to use the military zig-zag lacing style.

[Mickey]

I second the padre's notes. Get the best leather you can get that will require the least amount of wax to fill the pores. And get what your lady likes to see you in.

Personally, I don't like cap toes. They remind me of aviation/jump boots, so I can't really accept them as a dress look. That's MY weird hang up about them. However, if my wife were to give me these choices, I would pick #2 or #4. They have the more classic style of stitching. The rest have a look that is just a bit too... sleek, space age, want-to-be-trendy?... thing going on.

But then again, I'm not a fashion kind of guy. I let my wife pick out my clothes and shoes... then complain about the cost!

[CMcG]

I'd be asking that they be made of topgrain, fine-grained hard finish leather in order to take one heckuva shine. I'd also be asking for four eyelets in order to use the military zig-zag lacing style.

Good call on the leather because I want to be able to see my face in them once I finish shining them up!

As for the eyelets, must it be four or could it be just an even number? And could you explain that style of lacing or point me to one on the web?

[Spartan Tartan]

All leather soles. I had a pair similar to those in #4 custom made for my wedding...the leather soles are great for dancing, not so much for traction. Then again, I got them to dance. I still wear them whenever I can, but they're a bit snug with kilt hose.

[CMcG]

All leather soles. I had a pair similar to those in #4 custom made for my wedding...the leather soles are great for dancing, not so much for traction. Then again, I got them to dance. I still wear them whenever I can, but they're a bit snug with kilt hose.

I see that Zee's offers Dainite soles as an option though I think their default is leather soles. Thinner = more formal, right?

And you've just reminded me that I should bring kilt hose when I go for a fitting... if they are made a bit bigger, I can put insoles in when I wear them with regular socks. Thanks!

[pascs]

I see that Zee's offers Dainite soles as an option though I think their default is leather soles. Thinner = more formal, right?

And you've just reminded me that I should bring kilt hose when I go for a fitting... if they are made a bit bigger, I can put insoles in when I wear them with regular socks. Thanks!

I have some beautiful pairs of shoes like those in your pics, I'm not sure about thinner=more formal. Mine have 3 layers of leather on the sole, can look formal with a suit but great with jeans and make a lovely sound on a wooden dance floor

I'd certainly take your kilt hose when going for fitting since I'd think you normally wear quite thin socks. The shoemaker may also be able to make an insole for use with normal socks.

Anyway enjoy, great shoes really make an outfit

[Father Bill]

Good call on the leather because I want to be able to see my face in them once I finish shining them up!

As for the eyelets, must it be four or could it be just an even number? And could you explain that style of lacing or point me to one on the web?

I knew somebody would ask me that! It can be any even number but to me, six eyelet looks excessive in a dress shoe and two eyelet seems a little unusual.

Here's the diagram I drew: The idea is that only the crossing bars are seen thus keeping it very, very neat. In addition, it means that there are less creases created on the surface of the leather. Further, it's a safety item because if your foot were caught, it would be easy to release it with a single knife stroke. That's why the Canadian military uses (or at least used to - I don't know any more) this style. As a bonus, when you're in a hurry and need to touch up the shine, it's really easy to get past the laces.

Hope that helps.

... and a further thought just occurred to me. At 215 lbs, I hate having thin soles. If I step on a stone, I want to crush it, not have it come up through the sole into my foot. For that reason, I'd ask for a thick sole, or even a double one. I have often taken brand new shoes straight to the cobbler and asked him to add a second sole, and then put the heel back on. It's a wonderful feeling once you get used to it and looks rather manly.

[Newfoundlander]

I'd be asking that they be made of topgrain, fine-grained hard finish leather in order to take one heckuva shine. I'd also be asking for four eyelets in order to use the military zig-zag lacing style.

Hit the nail on the head there Father, but may I also add:

I'd also ask to see what soles they offer, whether it's hard soles that'll make a "click" when you walk, or if they have rubber caps on the heels to soften the sound.

Myself personally, I enjoy the click, it sounds more classic to me. But that could be a throwback to wearing military shoes and the clicking cadence sound of marching.

[CMcG]

Hit the nail on the head there Father, but may I also add:

I'd also ask to see what soles they offer, whether it's hard soles that'll make a "click" when you walk, or if they have rubber caps on the heels to soften the sound.

Myself personally, I enjoy the click, it sounds more classic to me. But that could be a throwback to wearing military shoes and the clicking cadence sound of marching.

I think I can pretty much ask them to do whatever I want as far as construction goes. A rubber cap on the heel sounds like a good compromise between getting some traction and maintaining a thin profile on the sole...