Centre stripes

[Bobby Gordon]

Hello gang.

I'm about to embark on making another kilt, this time a MacDonald Clan Ancient pleated to the set. The last kilt I made was a Gordon Clan Weathered, but a professional kiltmaker pointed out that the stripe I chose for the centre of the apron and the centre of the pleats was incorrect. So before I start on the MacDonald I'd like to do my research

I chose a stripe that was not only a line of symmetry, but also, because the fabric was double width, this stripe was running down the centre of the folded line. So I assumed it was the what i think is called the 'A' block.

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Well anyway, the kilt is perfectly symmetrical front and back and I am very pleased with it. But I don't know if this kiltmaker is right or wrong but she has worked at one of the most prestigious kiltmakers in Edinburgh and has about 30 years experience, but the stripe she pointed out didn't appear to be a line of symmetry.

So I would like to know how do you know which stripe is supposed to be used for the centre? is there any general rule of thumb when selecting one? what can you find information on centre stripes? or is it just a matter of personal preference and was this woman just trying to be the kilt police?

Regards
Bobby

[Paul Henry]

There are so many ways of making a kilt, but providing it fits, the pleats sit well , and things line up , there isn't anything "incorrect" Each kiltmaker has ways that they like to make a kilt, and not everyone is the same, but it sounds like the kiltmaker you know was being a little proprietorial!
I usually try and centre the front apron with the same stripe that I have used if I've pleated to stripe, but sometimes it isn't possible if there isn't alot of spare fabric, I have framed the centre with the stripes when I've had that problem.
When I work to the sett I have the same "sett" front and back , even if that means that the sides appear to double up, but I've worked and altered many kilts where there have been very creative solutions - and not all that I would have been happy with!
When I've worked with an asymetric tartan , I simply use the one that I like best!
So there isn't any real answer as to what is "correct" but I do try and match then front and back if I can!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Your kilt looks good to me! I'm sorry you were told you did it incorrectly. As Paul has said, there really is no "correct" or "incorrect" stripe to center on the apron. They key is just to have it centered symmetrically, which you have done. Most all tartans will have two points of symmetry. When you see a kilt made where the apron is not centered, that's usually a sign that it has been altered by letting the apron out at the end but not at the side where it joins with the pleats.

The only time you could ever do a "wrong" stripe is if you were making a kilt for a member of a band or other group that wears the kilt as a uniform and you have the kilt made so the apron is centered on a stripe different than the band wears. But that was obviously not the case here.

[TheOfficialBren]

By no means am I a kiltmaker but given my druthers I think that I would have chosen the same that you did. It looks awesome, mate!

[Barb T]

I can't say that I've ever had so little tartan that I had to pick a center stripe that wasn't a "pivot" (unless the tartan is asymmetric, in which case it doesn't have one). As Matt and Paul Henry point out, the thing you're aiming for is to have the apron be a mirror image on each side of the center line (again, except for asymmetric tartans). If you had picked the yellow stripe in brown, that wouldn't have been the case, and it would have looked odd to a kiltmaker. But you didn't, so I don't know either why you were told that you'd picked the "wrong" stripe.

[O'Searcaigh]

I am NOT a professional kilt maker either but have made a few for myself -- and getting a bit better with each one -- and have had two made for me. Unless you are part of a band (where all the kilts are supposed to be the same) there is no "correct stripe" to center either on the apron or the pleats. Any one you choose is the right one and as long as the apron is symmetrical side to side, that's all you need. Like many others have already said, whoever told you that yours was not the right one, well........