Toorie & Ribbos of Bonnet

[PatrickHughes123]

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could tell me the origin of the toorie and ribbons on the Glengarry/Balmoral.

I have looked at old photos of Jacobites with Blue Bonnets on, and they do not seem to have any of these?

Thanks!

[Luke MacGillie]

You are correct that very often you do not see tourees on the tops of everyday Highlanders. I am of a mind, but can not prove, that the tourees started in the military, as a form of easy ident of key leaders and later became "Standard"



This is an early 18th Century bonnet from one of the bog bodies, no touree, and actually no drawstring, which is what the ribbons today are decended from.

Here are a couple of members of the Highland Regiment in London in 1746, notice that the one figure does have a touree on the top of his bonnet.

[Luke MacGillie]

Another ca 1760, Soldier with touree

[PatrickHughes123]

You are correct that very often you do not see tourees on the tops of everyday Highlanders. I am of a mind, but can not prove, that the tourees started in the military, as a form of easy ident of key leaders and later became "Standard"

This is what my concern is, I mean, I have seen a picture of Bonnie Prince Charlie wearing a bonnet with a red tufty-bit on it, but I am not sure if this is the ancestor of the toorie or what. Considering the fact many did not have a toorie, but maybe he wore it to lead the Jacobites and it ACTUALLY is the case. But I made this thread trying to find a definite answer.

[Luke MacGillie]

Patrick,

There is nothing that I have ever found in 40 years of searching that placed tourees and drawstrings in bonnets in the realm of political speech in the 18th Century, unlike white cockades, black cockades or red salter cockades attached to bonnets.

[Manu]

One thing I can say with certainty is that, in modern day military beret (similar to the balmoral) the ribbon or drawstring is used to adjust the size of the beret. One simply puts on the beret and ties the drawstring tight using a double knot. In the US military, we tuck in the leftover drawstring to maintain a tidy appearance. It would make sense to me that at some point, someone added the ribbon to the balmoral for similar sizing purposes, sort of a one size fits all thing.

[Tobus]

This is what my concern is, I mean, I have seen a picture of Bonnie Prince Charlie wearing a bonnet with a red tufty-bit on it, but I am not sure if this is the ancestor of the toorie or what. Considering the fact many did not have a toorie, but maybe he wore it to lead the Jacobites and it ACTUALLY is the case. But I made this thread trying to find a definite answer.

The 1750 painting of Charles Edward Stuart (by William Mosman) does indeed show a "red tufty bit" on top of his bonnet. I would assume that this is an early form of what evolved into the toorie, especially since we see other evidence of it being used in the post-Culloden era as Luke MacGillie pointed out. Whether the Bonnie Prince started this fashion, or used it as some sort of symbol, I cannot say. But it does seem clear that the red tufty bit on his bonnet was a toorie of sorts and we can say with confidence that its history goes back to at least the '45 Rising.

I've been told by knitters that the origin of the toorie was more than merely decorative, and it was a way to gather and terminate the yarn ends from the center of the crown, tucking them through the last few stitches to bind them off. Even the French beret has a little stem or nipple (I believe this is what knitters call it) for the same purpose, and is more functional than decorative. It is certainly not necessary to finish off the crown, but it does make sense that it might have simply evolved as a form of decoration by knitters as a way to flourish the last bit of knitting by adding more yarn to the nipple and making it a little fluffy ball. It might then have evolved into a totally separate piece that was stitched on after the fact, and in different colours. This is conjecture on my part, however, and I do not state it as fact. If this is the case, and it evolved from the knitting process, then Prince Charles' toorie (which was red on his otherwise blue bonnet) would not have been the earliest use of it. His would have been a later decorative evolution. But again ...conjecture on my part. One of our historian-types will likely come along and school us on things.

As for the ribbons, I don't necessarily think they evolved from the drawstring, but they do serve the same purpose. A drawstring would be continuous all the way around, whereas the ribbons are merely stitched onto the rear to close up the V-shaped gap for final fitting to the wearer's head. I'm quite confident that the ribbons were purely functional in origin, and only later become decorative or meaningful (ties vs. untied).

[kingandrew]

From what I've read, Tobus is on the right track about the toorie's origin having something to do with the ends of the yarn. And I've read that the ribbons evolved out of a drawsting-type arrangement for sizing, like the military beret. I've also seen it stated that tied ribbons indicate you are married or "spoken for" romantically, while untied indicate you are "available." But I think most women would be looking at your ring finger rather than the ribbons on the back of your hat.

The idea that these elements may have come from military fashion seems plausible. The continuous tradition of kilt wearing in the Highland regiments seems to have been very influential on the way civilians started wearing kilts when the legal ban was lifted in the late 1700s.

Andrew

[PatrickHughes123]

The idea that these elements may have come from military fashion seems plausible. The continuous tradition of kilt wearing in the Highland regiments seems to have been very influential on the way civilians started wearing kilts when the legal ban was lifted in the late 1700s.

I agree with that to a very limited extent. I would say the Regiments mostly kept the kilt alive for future generations.

[tokareva]

Great questions Patrick, the toorie fell off my hat after I soaked it and squeezed the water out, I intend to sew it back on though. The ribbons were annoying me so I tied them in a bow, I hope that's correct etiquette wise.