What exactly is a “casual” kilt?

[kilted2000]

I’ve only worn the traditional 8 yard kilts but I am thinking of buying a USA Kilts 5 yard wool kilt. But I’m a little confused about what the difference is between this and my 8 yarder. Besides the amount of material used, is the construction different? Does it hang and move differently? Also, does their PV kilt look and feel very different from wool? I prefer wool, but the price of the PV kilts is very tempting.

[Steve Ashton]

The categories of kilt that we use here on X Marks are these -

The Historical Style
These are those not constructed or tailored at all. Basically a blanket wrapped around the body. (An example of an Historical Style kilt is what some call a Great Kilt)

The Traditional Style
These are as described in "The Art of Kiltmaking". 100% wool, totally hand stitched, with full floating interfacing and stabilizer, and designed to be worn at the anatomical waist.

The Contemporary Style
These include the full floating interfacing and stabilizer which are the hall mark of the Traditional but my be made to be worn with the waist anywhere the wearer wishes. They may be made from almost any fabric and may be hand or machine stitched. And they may or may not include hidden pockets. (AKA a Freedom Kilt)

The Casual Style
These will look from the outside like a Traditional Style but lack the internal interfacing and stabilizer. They are most commonly machine stitched. (AKA a USA Kilt Semi-Trad)

The Sport or Pub Style
These are constructed to be as inexpensive as possible for Highland Heavy Event athletes and/or for sale as "Tourist wear". Usually made from machine washable fabrics. (AKA a Stillwater, or a Gold Bros.)

The Utility or MUG Style
These were first introduced by The Utilikilt Company and are usually made from solid colored fabric and are considered the "Blue Jeans" of kilts.

[figheadair]

I'm not sure about 'Historical Style' but historical i.e. pre-1830s kilts were most definitely tailored, just not so much as they are today.

[Jock Scot]

Yes it is confusing, particularly as it is perfectly possible, in some circumstances, to wear a traditional kilt casually. Actually the traditional kilt is worn normally, it is what is worn with it that changes. Which is what many traditional kilt wearers do, quite happily.

[kilted2000]

So is the USA Kilts casual kilt a pub kilt or a true casual kilt?

[Father Bill]

You're back to asking for a definition again, so I would ask first, "What constitutes a 'pub kilt'?"

[KennethSime]

I’ve only worn the traditional 8 yard kilts but I am thinking of buying a USA Kilts 5 yard wool kilt. But I’m a little confused about what the difference is between this and my 8 yarder. Besides the amount of material used, is the construction different? Does it hang and move differently? Also, does their PV kilt look and feel very different from wool? I prefer wool, but the price of the PV kilts is very tempting.

A lot to unpack here. Note that Steve's definitions are those that folks may use here on XMarks, but USA Kilts has their own marketing terms which get used for their products. While there are many similarities between kilt makers, there are just as many differences - in their marketing was well as everything else. As Father bill points out, if you're asking for a definition, you may as well make up your own first. So, let's just use Steve's for now, which are very well thought-out.

The USA Kilts 5-yard wool kilt is made with less tartan cloth, and lacks the internal construction of a traditional 8-yard knife-pleat kilt, which Steve calls a Traditional Kilt. Their tweed kilts and their Semi-trad kilts are made in the same way, using tweed and Marton Mills polyviscose tartan, respectively. This means all three would fall into Steve's "Casual Kilt" category.

Since these "casual kilts" have aprons which are about the same size as an 8-yard kilt, there is a lot less material in the back - roughly 3 yards less. Making due with less material means that the pleats have to be shallower, and less numerous. Most people will not notice the difference, but you probably will if you're familiar with an 8-yard kilt.

The pleats will swish a bit less, and since they weigh less as a whole, they'll have less momentum and stop swishing faster. Now, that's not a bad thing - I find a 5-yard is a bit less fussy for everyday wear. However, it is a marked difference, and I wouldn't personally try to dress up a 5-yard for a black tie event if I had an 8-yard at my disposal.

USA Kilts' Casual Kilt is actually made with even less material, and while they're great for what they are, they're really just a piece of PV tartan that's been trimmed to size, pleated up, sewn down, with some velcro sewn in for closure. Oh, and belt loops. Great for wearing to the pub, a concert, etc. For anything athletic, I like Sport Kilts better: they don't look as nice, but they stay out of your way better.

[Recon1342]

A lot to unpack here. Note that Steve's definitions are those that folks may use here on XMarks, but USA Kilts has their own marketing terms which get used for their products. While there are many similarities between kilt makers, there are just as many differences - in their marketing was well as everything else. As Father bill points out, if you're asking for a definition, you may as well make up your own first. So, let's just use Steve's for now, which are very well thought-out.

The USA Kilts 5-yard wool kilt is made with less tartan cloth, and lacks the internal construction of a traditional 8-yard knife-pleat kilt, which Steve calls a Traditional Kilt. Their tweed kilts and their Semi-trad kilts are made in the same way, using tweed and Marton Mills polyviscose tartan, respectively. This means all three would fall into Steve's "Casual Kilt" category.

Since these "casual kilts" have aprons which are about the same size as an 8-yard kilt, there is a lot less material in the back - roughly 3 yards less. Making due with less material means that the pleats have to be shallower, and less numerous. Most people will not notice the difference, but you probably will if you're familiar with an 8-yard kilt.

The pleats will swish a bit less, and since they weigh less as a whole, they'll have less momentum and stop swishing faster. Now, that's not a bad thing - I find a 5-yard is a bit less fussy for everyday wear. However, it is a marked difference, and I wouldn't personally try to dress up a 5-yard for a black tie event if I had an 8-yard at my disposal.

USA Kilts' Casual Kilt is actually made with even less material, and while they're great for what they are, they're really just a pieces of PV tartan that's been trimmed to size, pleated up, sewn down, with some velcro sewn in for closure. Oh, and belt loops. Great for wearing to the pub, a concert, etc. For anything athletic, I like Sport Kilts better: they don't look as nice, but they stay out of your way better.

For poor folk like me, a USAK casual is just the ticket. Scratches the itch while I save the money for a tank. I agree, though- it’s definitely a different animal from an 8 yard wool kilt.

[KennethSime]

For poor folk like me, a USAK casual is just the ticket. Scratches the itch while I save the money for a tank. I agree, though- it’s definitely a different animal from an 8 yard wool kilt.

That's precisely why I purchased my first USAK Casual actually, and it performed the same role for me. I sold both of my casuals recently to help fund the purchase of a USAK Semi-Trad, but then some other expenses came up.

If anyone asks about a good kilt for about $100, the USAK Casual is my top recommendation. It looks wayyyy better than a Sport Kilt, and is made better than many acrylic or "wool blend" imports. It is, however, not the same thing as a "Casual Kilt" as defined by Steve earlier in the thread.