Guidance solicited

[Taffy Jack]

Gentlemen and ladies:

I currently own one kilt, originally purchased to meet a friend’s wedding dress code, in U.S. Army tartan. I’d like another.

While the army tartan is handsome enough and a defensible choice for me, I’d like to shop for another kilt in more subdued tones for more frequent wear — possibly heathered greys with blue or brown, maybe a touch of orange… as someone partially red/green colorblind, I’m firmly “not the color guy” in my family.

Tweed, perhaps?

It bears observing that I also gained about 30 lbs., and the last holes on my adjustment straps are holding on for dear life.

In further physical, er… “developments”… I’ve developed a burgeoning collection of lower leg blood clots, the treatment of which includes puttee-type leg wraps. While mildly obnoxious to shove through trousers, they do add calf girth (a good look) and friction to keep kilt hose from sagging — a silver lining!

So the floor is open, should anyone care to offer tartan suggestions.

In case of questions: my legal surname is Llewyllson, which doesn’t help; spouse and I wove that one from our former names. Born surname is Lewis, which has some arguable clan connections, but “loud McCleod” is right out — I’m disinclined to wear it.

Served in our (that is, U.S.) army, but I already own that one. Was a PSYOP soldier, but that tartan isn’t available except through rare and notoriously disorganized regimental buys.

Spouse is Jewish; I’m agnostic. Native to the PNW region of the U.S.A. and live there, but I’ve been a lot of places. I’m mostly English/Welsh, with a fair chunk of Scandinavian (bit less Nordic than my eldest daughter, though).

Spouse and one of my kids are gay.

Past pursuits include tech-adjacent contracting, journalism, motorcycling, and a reluctantly abandoned fondness for single-malt Scotch (Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist is my all-time favorite).

Drive a Subaru to get places, and an MG for the hell of it.

Currently own a subdued brown sporran for day wear, a snappy black one with the “kilt hire” look, only one set of flashes in artillery red, and not nearly enough socks (I’ll also need a bigger pair of shoes, but that’s a separate challenge).

Anyone care to pile on? Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Jack

[Jock Scot]

Macleod of Harris might fit the bill? There are some more muted versions around too, so you could keep a connection there, too.

I must declare a bias though!

[Canadian Vet]

Gentlemen and ladies:

I currently own one kilt, originally purchased to meet a friend’s wedding dress code, in U.S. Army tartan. I’d like another.

While the army tartan is handsome enough and a defensible choice for me, I’d like to shop for another kilt in more subdued tones for more frequent wear — possibly heathered greys with blue or brown, maybe a touch of orange… as someone partially red/green colorblind, I’m firmly “not the color guy” in my family.

Tweed, perhaps?

It bears observing that I also gained about 30 lbs., and the last holes on my adjustment straps are holding on for dear life.

In further physical, er… “developments”… I’ve developed a burgeoning collection of lower leg blood clots, the treatment of which includes puttee-type leg wraps. While mildly obnoxious to shove through trousers, they do add calf girth (a good look) and friction to keep kilt hose from sagging — a silver lining!

So the floor is open, should anyone care to offer tartan suggestions.

In case of questions: my legal surname is Llewyllson, which doesn’t help; spouse and I wove that one from our former names. Born surname is Lewis, which has some arguable clan connections, but “loud McCleod” is right out — I’m disinclined to wear it.

Served in our (that is, U.S.) army, but I already own that one. Was a PSYOP soldier, but that tartan isn’t available except through rare and notoriously disorganized regimental buys.

Spouse is Jewish; I’m agnostic. Native to the PNW region of the U.S.A. and live there, but I’ve been a lot of places. I’m mostly English/Welsh, with a fair chunk of Scandinavian (bit less Nordic than my eldest daughter, though).

Spouse and one of my kids are gay.

Past pursuits include tech-adjacent contracting, journalism, motorcycling, and a reluctantly abandoned fondness for single-malt Scotch (Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist is my all-time favorite).

Drive a Subaru to get places, and an MG for the hell of it.

Currently own a subdued brown sporran for day wear, a snappy black one with the “kilt hire” look, only one set of flashes in artillery red, and not nearly enough socks (I’ll also need a bigger pair of shoes, but that’s a separate challenge).

Anyone care to pile on? Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Jack

There are various weathered Stewarts that are quite attractive and meet your colour requirements.
You don't have to be Stewart to wear them (I am) but it is fair to say that the very many versions of the Stewart pattern are really "gifted" to the World.

Thank you for your service, btw.

[OC Richard]

I’d like to shop for another kilt in more subdued tones for more frequent wear — possibly heathered greys with blue or brown, maybe a touch of orange…

Tweed, perhaps?

I think this meets your brief pretty well having brown, blue, and orange tones.

It's beautiful. You might have a non-partially-colour-blind person take a look for a thumbs up or down.

It's called "Autumn", tweed, by Marton Mills. Here's the link https://martonmills.com/product/autumn/



I have a kilt in a Marton Mills tweed, even more subdued, in Hunting Stewart Weathered.

The kilt was hand-stitched by Cathy Hope in Edinburgh.

[MacKenzie]

Have a gander at the Hebridean Tartans from The House of Edgar.

Click on "Select an option" (lower right) to see swatches of them all.

https://www.houseofedgar.com/product...idean-tartans/


I'm partial to MacKenzie. But, as Jock said, I must declare a bias.

[Adrian]

I've a range of muted and ancient tartan swatches in my possession...see a few examples in the attachment.
Also small business www.eskdaletartans.co.uk should be trading in 2026, have a look at what's in the loom have done the first 8 weaves and it's woven in the South of Scotland. Going to be weaving a muted and ancient in the new year.
Are you sure you don't want loud MacLeod...!!!

[OC Richard]

Have a gander at the Hebridean Tartans from The House of Edgar.

Click on "Select an option" (lower right) to see swatches of them all.

https://www.houseofedgar.com/product...idean-tartans/

The Hebridean Range is beautiful. Like any tartans they really need to be seen in person. I've looked through an Edgar Hebridean swatch-book a few times and they're just lovely.

About the Marton Mills tweed tartans they're here under their "Cairngorm Tweed" category along with non-tartan tweeds.

Here's Page 3 which has Autumn tweed, Lindsay tweed, Hunting Stewart Weathered tweed, and others:

https://martonmills.com/cairngorm-tweed/?product-page=3

Here's Page 4 which has Black Watch Weathered tweed, Holyrood Weathered tweed, and others:

https://martonmills.com/cairngorm-tweed/?product-page=4

Here's Page 5 which has Holyrood tweed, which also fills your bill as to having blue and brown tones

https://martonmills.com/cairngorm-tweed/?product-page=5

Needless to say these tweeds look better in person. They have a wonderful unique look and feel to them.

[MacKenzie]

Needless to say these tweeds look better in person. They have a wonderful unique look and feel to them.

If I could justify two more kilts, after the MacKenzie Hebridean would be a Stewart Hunting Weathered tweed. I've coveted yours since you first posted it.

[Pleater]

I was just musing that some of my kilts might qualify as muted and/or ancient and realised that it is almost 20 years since I joined X marks and I had been making kilts for myself for a little while by then.
There have been kilts which came to sad ends, being ripped, one which was made from fabric heavily weighted, so every wash left it lighter and more faded, one which proved to be printed on the skew, so the pleats twisted and the pattern wandered off sideways - on the whole though kilts have proven a most excellent form of garment, and many have been admired.

Anne the Pleater

[SF Jeff]

Macleod of Harris might fit the bill? There are some more muted versions around too, so you could keep a connection there, too.

I must declare a bias though!

I'll second this. There are some very nice weathered/muted/ancient/etc. versions of MacLeod of Harris. And I now see a MacLeod of Harris Antique tartan. That's a new one for me.

Caveat: I also must claim a bias (sept, not blood)