Alteration question for kiltmakers.

[Mychael Sporrano]

Hi-

I recently ordered a pair of made to measure kilts from a highly reputable UK purveyor. One of the kilts was made too small, an error which the purveyor recognized when I sent the gaments back for their inspection. Here is what I was sent:

"Just to let you know that the kilts have arrived and our kilt maker has had a look at them. He checked the waist measurement and it is measuring 33" to the middle hole on the Armagh kilt and 32" on the [other kilt]. This has obviously been our mistake and we will rectify the problem by letting out through the straps and buckles the 1" required. I apologise for the inconvenience this has caused."

Is this an acceptable fix? I have concerns that it might affect adversely the proportions of the kilt. Also, if I should need to have the kilt let out in the future will I be out of luck? I have asked to have the kilt remade to the original measurements but do not want to be unreasonable.

Any input appreciated.

Mychael

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Mychael, good to "read" from you again!

As for the one inch alteration, it's only a crop of 1/2" per strap, and that's minimal. Anything within about 1" to 1.5" of expansion is completely acceptable with a traditional. The "under apron" usually accomodates such an alteration with a side hem of 3-4 inches of extra material. When you get it back, just be sure that the under-apron fully extends across the front of the kilt.

To make it larger in the future may not be as simple however. It requires "re-working" the pleats to where you have enough material to extend the garment. That can be very time consuming and difficult... especially if it's lined correctly. After that the under-apron, the belt-loops, the lining, the cap, and the straps/buckles need to be matched-up to the new sizing. The toughest part is working with the material that's been cut away (under the lining) so that the kilt fits the hips without bulking/bunching. It's possible... just time consuming. That's what I'll be doing beginning in November (along with repairs and re-linings).

Since marrying a Pastry Chef, I've already had to alter my favorite kilts. The casuals are a piece-of-cake, whereas the authentic wool traditionals are time consuming. It's a lot less expensive than selling them and ordering new ones!

Let us know how they look when you get them back!

[Uncle Ricky]

When you invest that much money in a fine kilt, it gives you considerable incentive to watch your weight. Best not to over indulge too often eh.

Cheers
Rick

[Barb T]

Hi

I pretty much agree with Jimmy with one exception. If a kilt is measured to fit precisely, the fringe of the apron edge will just cover the underapron. If the kilt is small by an inch, then an inch of the underapron will show. While the buckles and straps can be moved so that the kilt can be buckled, it will always look odd because the apron doesn't cover the underapron and it is _really_ noticeable. By contrast, if a kilt is slightly big and the buckles and straps are moved tighter, the apron edge covers a bit of the pleats, but it's not noticeable (particularly if the kilt is pleated to the stripe).

So, if it were me, I'd hold out until I'd actually tried the kilt on. If any of the underapron shows when it's buckled, I'd send it back and have them re-make it, because moving the buckles and straps won't solve the problem.

Cheers!

Barb

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I pretty much agree with Jimmy with one exception. If a kilt is measured to fit precisely, the fringe of the apron edge will just cover the underapron.

Presicely.

To make it larger in the future may not be as simple however. It requires "re-working" the pleats to where you have enough material to extend the garment.

That is what was meant by that passage, without going into boring detail of what that takes to complete. Not fun is it Barb?!

[Barb T]

Yeh - I _hate_ remaking kilts. In fact, it's so unpredictable what you'll find inside a kilt made by someone else (and some of them are un-alterable...) that I don't take a job of altering anything but the hem or buckles on any kilt that I haven't made myself. Nothing like spending the time to take a kilt apart only to discover that someone cut out the deep pleat....!

Cheers!

Barb