Sett and Colors question

[Casey_in_Carolina]

Not sure if this is in the right place or not, but was having a thought, and decided to go ahead and ask.

What is the relationship between the Sett and the Colors of a particular tartan? If I understand correctly, the Sett is what determines the tartan, and the colors are more malleable. For example, the difference between a Clan regular tartan, Hunting tartan, or Dress tartan. Is this accurate? Meaning as long as the weave of the Sett is maintained, the colors can be different yet still be a viable tartan of the clan?

Curious because I'm a Clarke, and the Clark tartan is pretty much a one shot. I don't see a lot of variations out there, possibly because it's a family tartan and not a clan, I don't know. I was just curious about getting some more colors into my kilts when I can afford the next one, and was wondering if there was a way to do this and still wear the Clark tartan, or if I'd have to look at expanding into other tartans I could legitimately wear, such as the US Army, Law Enforcement Officer, or Carolina tartans.

Thanks for any information and education on the subject.


Casey

[Rex_Tremende]

Matt Newsome has an article on the subject.

Regards,
Rex.

[Carolina Kiltman]

The way I understand it, the sett, or pattern, is set as to colours. The usual variations are the variances of hue, for instance Blue, can be so dark as to appear black, or as light as faded denim. Then there are "muted" colours, where the colours are a grayed shade of the original hue. "Ancient colours" are usually faded - the colours are more like pastels.

For my own clan, there are three tartans, dress, ancient sett and hunting. The only difference between the ancient sett and hunting is the inclusion of two narrow black stripes on either side of the pivot stripe of the sett. For the "ancient hunting" the colours are quite light, the blue like the faded denim mentioned above.

Perhaps someone like Newsome at the Tartans Museum can give you a more expanded answer on this one.

Happy hunting!

[McMurdo]

I found this on ScotWeb regarding Sett and Colour, I think it answers quite few questions.

You may well find that the actual colour of a piece of tartan fabrics differs from what you expect (sometimes greatly) compared to what you've seen on a computer display; or compared to the 'same' tartan from a different weaving mill; or even compared to a previous piece from the same source. This is quite normal, for many reasons.

One of our tartan weaving specialists puts it this way: "Tartans are made up of two main ingredients namely the sett [the criss-cross pattern] and the colours. The sett is the main one as if this is not correct a tartan can not be what it purports to be. Colour is secondary because in the old days these would vary with plants for dyeing used and there would be differences within one clan or family."

Even today, just as with any textile such as wallpaper, one batch will never quite match another. Dyes vary and one batch of yarn can be significantly different to the next.

And different weaving mills may also have quite different ideas as to how a particular tartan should look. The 'same' tartan from two mills can be rich and vibrant or subtle and subdued, for example.

Also, the colour 'swatches' we show on screen can never be accurate. Photography creates inevitable variation. And many of the tartans we display (especially for weave-to-order fabrics) are computer generated idealised images, whilst the weaver's interpretation may involve quite different shades.

As for computer monitors, well these can never display reliably... just look at a range of television sets in the shop side by side, and see how the colours vary! Even how long it has been on (and so how hot it is) can make a big difference. So can lighting conditions in your room.

Several of these factors may even overlap. So if you are making a major purchase such as a kilt and you are concerned with exactly what the colours will be, we strongly advise that you order a fabric swatch from us in advance. We do charge for these, but the cost can be refunded against a larger order later on (see our Full Terms).

When no swatch is available (e.g. for a fabric that has to be woven to order) please enquire for further advice if you are concerned. We will try to give you as much indication as possible as to how actual colours may turn out. But if you commission our highly experienced weavers to produce a length, it is ultimately at your own risk, and we cannot accept responsibility if shades are not as you like or expect.

[Casey_in_Carolina]

Thanks for the responses. That article by Mr. Newsome was most informative. If I've got it correctly in my head, then I could possibly find the Clark tartan in a range of shades of the main colors, which are Black, Blue, and White. Anything from dark to light, and muted to vibrant. Also, if I understand correctly from Mr. Newsome's article, if I were to find a 'Weathered' Clark tartan, it might actually be different colors than the original, as it would have been designed to look like it sat in a peat bog for a few years, and the colors would have changed with that aging.

Hmmm, it looks like there might be some options out there, that will still remain within the Clark tartan, I'll just have to do some hunting to find them, and then probably do some scrimping and saving to afford them. I'm guessing that since the Clark tartan is family and not clan, there has probably not been as much call for variations in it, and they will probably be a bit scarce and priced accordingly....

Thanks for the help all, time to figure out where I can scrimp and save a bit more for the next kilt


Casey

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Just FYI, the Clark tartan you normally see is a variation of the Clergy tartan (from some mills it is the same tartan). But there actually is an honest to goodness Clark family tartan that is completely unrelated to the Clergy tartan. It's a red design. You can probably find it on the Tartan Ferret. So if you are looking for some variety in the Clark tartan, there ya go.

M

[Casey_in_Carolina]

Just FYI, the Clark tartan you normally see is a variation of the Clergy tartan (from some mills it is the same tartan). But there actually is an honest to goodness Clark family tartan that is completely unrelated to the Clergy tartan. It's a red design. You can probably find it on the Tartan Ferret. So if you are looking for some variety in the Clark tartan, there ya go.

M

Thanks for the tip, now I've got some searching to do. I tried the Tartan Ferret at "Scottish Tartans Authority", but got mostly clan returns:

Name of Tartan ITI Number
Chattan (Clan) 1851
Clark (Clan) 633
Clerke of Ulva 168
MacKintosh (Chief) 1622
MacKintosh (Clan) 521
MacKintosh Dress (Scott Adie) 538
MacKintosh Htg 544
MacKintosh, Red 5889
MacPherson (Clan) 1410
MacPherson (Crubin Plaid) 588
MacPherson Dress (1842) 1872
MacPherson Dress (1951) 5921
MacPherson Htg 547

The Clerke of Ulva is alternatively listed as the Clark of Ulva, and has a pleasing pattern of deep green and blue, but no red Clark tartans.

Which brings up another question, what's the significance of a place name attached to a tartan? Should you be able to trace your lineage back to that particular place to legitimately wear it?

Ah well, off to see if I can find that red Clark somewhere else....

Casey

[Rex_Tremende]

Ah well, off to see if I can find that red Clark somewhere else....

Is it the one mentioned here?

Regards,
Rex.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Is it the one mentioned here?

Regards,
Rex.

That's the one.

The Clerke of Ulva tartan is associated with a particular family of the name who at one time owned the Isle of Ulva (traditional home of the MacQuarrie clan).

The island was purchased by Francis William Clark in 1835. I'd assume the tartan to be associated with the same family.

Here's a link with Ulva info:
http://www.ulva.mull.com/

I've always thought the Clerke of Ulva tartan to be attractive.

[Casey_in_Carolina]

Is it the one mentioned here?

Regards,
Rex.

I'm not sure if that's the red Clark that Mr. Newsome had in mind, but it's certainly a handsome tartan.

I guess I really need to establish some sort of library for myself, of any tartan that may be associated with the Clark name, and learn them well, so that if I ever run across one, I'll recognize it for what it is, and maybe be able to snatch it up.....


Casey