Sporran #3

[tombont]

Here are my steps to create my new sporran.

I decided to try the Rob Roy model based on the pdf that is floating around. I've seen many different styles, mostly ones made with soft leather all around. For mine, I decided to use some 6-7 oz shoulder for the front and back. The gusset will be a piece of scrap upholstery that is well worn with some felt on the back. The lining will be pig skin.





Step 1: Pattern

I had to adjust the measurements some. I decided to go with 1/4" extra on each side to allow for stitching. Here is a picture of the back w/flap drawn out on the flesh side. As I plan to glue some pig skin here, I can draw all I want. I found the calipers essential on this step.

Note: There are few scars on the section of leather I plan to use. I've had good luck getting an "old" look out of new materials when I do this. I wonder how the dying will look on it . . . ?





Step 2: Cutting

Cut it out. I was careful to put skin to skin while tracing out the front. I shot myself in the foot a couple of time in the past by stacking my pieces all facing the same way. When it comes to putting them together, any flaws I have in my cutouts don't line up.



I also decided to put my stitching groove in now, before dying the leather.

I also debated on whether I would carve/stamp a design along the edge, inside the groove, before dying. I decided against it at the last minute -- I've actually had good luck with stamping after dying (it really depends on the amount of dye and quality of the leather). I'll experiment with that later and if I like the design, I'll add it before stitching. It's not a show-stopper for me in either case.



Step 3: Dying

I picked up some Dark Mahogany from Tandy's today. I usually stick with Range Tan or Black when dying but I've always loved the Mahogany antique. It came out a little more purple than I would liked at this stage. I may put a few more coats on after this dries to darken it up some.

Note I cut the dye 10:1 with water. Cutting it that much tends to stiffen the leather when you are done but I find you get a much more even coating.

The scars look good believe it or not and fat lines look really good.

And as it is drying, the edges are getting lighter. I definitely need more coats. I hope my fat lines done get too dark. Tomorrow . . .



Step 4: Gusset/Tassels

I cut a 4" by 22" strip. I only need 17.5" to go around but I want an inch or two of seam on the inside tops.

The tassel are 7.5" by 2". I wanted more tassel than suggested in the pdf. 20 didn't look good enough. I have around 40 on each.





Leaning Point: When you tie knots in double lacing, you need about 3" extra in length. Luckily, this is the center one which hangs down lower. If it doesn't look right, I'll redo this one.

To be continued . . .

[dfmacliam]

I have seen this pattern a few times.... its good seeing it put from paper to leather.. I am anxiously waiting to see the final results.... Thank you for showing this progression

[tombont]

Thanks for the comment.

Step 4 (continued): Tassels

The tassels turned out great. I still have that one with the short straps on the bottom. Stay tuned for whether I redo that one or not (the wife thinks I should trim the straps up in the tassel -- comments on that?)



How I tied the thread:

As you could see from my previous post, I put a bit of glue on the end of tassel to keep the strap in place. I then rolled the tassel around the strap, very tightly and keeping the top of the roll even. I put a bit of glue on the end piece as well to keep it secure while I wrapped the thread around that.

I used brown waxed thread.

I used a Boy Scout whip line knot, pulling one end completely in, trimming it, and the pulling it the rest of the way in, and then trimming the pull line. I started the loop right next to the end of the tassel wrap to keep it round.

These pictures came out a bit blurry -- my apologies -- I didn't catch it until I was done.







Step 5: Strap Anchors

I forgot to mention that I planned to use rivets to hold the straps in place on this one. When you do stitching in tight quarters, every little mistake looks like it's been put under a microscope (see Sporran #2). These have been dyed but not in this picture. Notice I am using D-Rings like on Sporran #2.



Step 3 (revisited): Dying

WOW! Putting the next dozen coats on really darkened it up. You can't see it clearly in this picture but the marbling came out great, the fat lines are distinct and the leather flaws look old instead of like flaws. I am happy -- this is what I was looking for.

Note that this may look a bit dark. I am not concerned because when I put my Satin Sheen on, it tends to lighten it up some.



To be continued . . .

[12stones]

Looking good!

[pdcorlis]

More, More!

[tombont]

Step 6: Backing

I glued the back of the main pieces to the skin side of the pig skin (the flesh side is the good side). On the front piece I didn't get enough glue all the way to edge so I had to put some more in there (and thus wait for THAT to dry).

After the glue dried I cut the pig skin as close to the edge of the main pieces as I could. Then I burnished the top edge of the top of the front piece.



Step 7: Attaching Strap Anchors

I used small double cap rivets to attach the anchors. I started out with the longer ones but there wasn't enough leather to hold it so the stem bent. I was a little worried the shorter ones wouldn't work but they did. You can see the mess on the left bottom rivet location where I had to take the long one out and put a short one in. Luckily this is the back so no one will see it except for me (and anyone reading this).

You may ask why I didn't put these on before applying the liner. I wanted to ensure a very flat surface to put my granite slap on while gluing. If the anchors had been in place, I might not have gotten a good gluing. YMMV.

Learning Point: Ensure you don't get any glue on your main surface. It is hard to get off and cover up. I got two little spots now. My wife couldn't find them but I know they are there.




Step 8: Super Sheening

I know I said I was going to Satin Sheen, but I decided to Super Sheen it. I was not let down. It didn't lighten up, though. It got darker but much richer.

I am not sure why it looks like the Sheen isn't covered under the anchors. It is. Must be a picture artifact.



Step 9: Gusset Assembly

I glued the folds and then stitched. Unfortunately, my measurements were off somewhat because I didn't have enough to make an identical fold on the other side. Drats.





Step 10: Attach Gusset to Front Piece

I used a locking stitch.

Inside view



Stitched end of the Gusset



Outside view, turn inside out. Notice I do not yet have the other end of the gusset stitched up yet. I waited until I was done attaching it to the front piece so I would have an exact fit. I stopped about 6 stitches down and glued the seam.



Turned right side out. I am not sure where those little white sparkles are coming from. I guess it's just that shiny :-)




To be continued . . .

[JolyStNicholas]

Ah! It ended much to soon, I along with others will be wait'in ta see the end!

Looks grand so far!

[tombont]

Step 11: Attach the back piece (and sew the other side of the gusset)

Darn it! For some reason, I ended up with more gusset on the back than the front. I've measured it and it should work. I think I am stretching the leather during the sewing process or it's because I used a longer stitch. I've been wanting to experiment and see what happens. I suspect stretching instead of longer stitches, though.

To compensate, I bunched a bit on the left side and half-way down. It doesn't look that bad but I sure wish I didn't have to do that.

Also, the unmatched seams stick out if you know what to look for.



You can see the longer stitches at the bottom in this one. I used the regular, shorter ones at the top for structural support.

The lining looks great.



Step 12: Gusset Ties

To keep the gusset tight against the flap, I decided to use 3/16" eyelets. My experience in the past has been the leather tends to tear when you pass lacing through them. Besides, it looks nicer.

I bunched it up, tied it in a knot inside and then run it out and through the loop. Decorative and functional.





Step 13: Burnish the Flap Edge

Done. I had to re-glue most of the edge. For some reason the burnishing doesn't work good on the pig skin. Too thin?

Step 14: Attach the Tassels

Two holes each, single thread. I hope it holds.

Note the shorter, center tassel. I put it on KNOWING I was going to take it off and redo it but once I saw it, I kinda liked it.







Step 15: Clean up.



Total Time to build Rob Roy Sporran, Tom Bont Mod 1: 12 hours give or take.

[tombont]

Deleted By Me