Which way to go

[Drac]

Evening all,

Getting psyched up. February's Reserve weekend check is for getting a new kilt.

I have a couple my wife made me that now that I know what I'm looking at are probably more of kilted skirts as they have no apron. She made these for me years ago before the bug caught me for the Ren fairs. I also have a a Sport Kilt which is Navy (Edzell) I like and has worked well but now I'm ready to upgrade to something a bit more formal.

I have decided to go with USA but as a newbie I'm still not sure what I'm looking at. I'm wanting something that I can wear to formal events but won't be to out of place around town. I want to go with a Lamont, probably the modern.

Now comes the details. 5 or 8 yard, 13 or 16 oz, what makes Loch worth the extra $40 over MM. I'm a bit confused by these.

Thanks for your help,
Jim

[McMurdo]

I would say go for the best kilt you can afford, they will if made properly and of quality materials outlast you. If it were me I'd go for the 16oz 8 yard as it is easy to dress down when needed. For an example of how versatile the 8 yard 16oz kilt can be take a look at the 1 kilt 10 looks thread

[Mr. MacDougall]

I'll second that. Particularly in your service tartan, get the best kilt you can afford. There are several of us running around the forum with US Navy tartan kilts from USAK, and I, for one, am very, very pleased.

[Drac]

Ok that may take two weekend checks

Unfortunately USA doesn't carry Edzell which from what I understand is not a big surprise since I remember reading that it isn't produced in Scotland anymore.

I do want a Lamont in honor of my paternal grandmother a Whyte. I have been hanging out with the Lamonts and trying to help where I can. I am hoping to join CLSNA this year.

[MacMillan of Rathdown]

Go for a 16 oz tank in Lamont tartan-- for all the reasons that Glen has cited.

[McMurdo]

Here is what The Scottish Register of Tartans has to say about the US Navy Edzell tartan:

STA ref: 80

STWR ref: 80

Designer: Mackie, Arthur H

Tartan date: 01/01/1980

Registration date: This tartan was recorded prior to the launch of The Scottish Register of Tartans.

Category: Military

Restrictions: Yes.
Weaving restricted to the Strathmore Woollen Company Ltd.

Registration notes: Designed by Arthur Mackie of Strathmore Woollens for USN personnel at Edzell radar base in Angus, Scotland.


http://www.tartanregister.gov.uk/tar....aspx?ref=4188

[Mr. MacDougall]

I believe it can still be special ordered, however, even if it's not carried stock.

[ForresterModern]

Edzell tartan should be available somewhere, although your choices in weight or weaver may not be broad. Strathmore weaves it in 13 oz as stock, but also could weave it in 16 oz as a custom order I bet (I have some custom 16oz Strathmore that is superb fabric). It lists as stock on their website in 13oz double width fabric for 25.53gbp/meter (about $45US per DW meter) plus shipping, and can be ordered directly from them if you so choose or ordered by your chosen kiltmaker. They may get a discount but also may mark it back up a bit on their end so often it comes out a wash expense wise.

http://www.strathmorewoollen.co.uk/m...&cat=31&page=2

RE: the Lamont, once you have decided between the modern, ancient, muted (my preference personally), and weathered colorways, figuring out what mill to go with can either be a matter of availability, but more often quality or cost. Lochcarron, House of Edgar, Strathmore, and DC Dalgleish IMHO make the highest quality tartan available anywhere, although that made by Marton Mills is not far behind, just has a higher tendency to have a somewhat less than perfect selvedge sometimes and maybe a slightly coarser finish. Batley mills is only slightly behind them, for similar reasons. You may find your tartan at Fraser & Kirkbright, and likely at a more reasonable price, although theirs is made from merino worsted wool which has a slightly softer hand and lighter overall feel than similar weights from other mills, and there occasionally have been some quality issues brought up (my skewed Maple Leaf tartan for example). I would not hesitate to have a kilt made from tartan from any of these mills, and in fact do have kilts in tartan made by each of them now hanging in the closet.

The other difference to consider is the variation of the coloration of the same tartan made by different mills, and sometimes in different runs from the same mill. If you are really picky about specific coloration it is best to get swatches to compare side by side, or if you come across a kiltmaker with the various mills' tartan pattern books at a highland games you can often do the comparison there as well, although lighting may not be ideal under those circumstances (tartan often looks different indoors from outdoors), and, again, different tartan runs from the same mill may have some variation from one another too.

After that your next hard choice is who to choose as your kiltmaker, and everybody has their own opinions about who they prefer, but pretty much any of the advertising sponsors of this forum would be quality and service minded enough to get a good job done for you, as well as many of the independents who are forum members (Barb T, Lady Chrystel, Matt Newsome, Wallace Cattanach, Bonnie Heather Greene, Robert from Rkilts to name but a few) or not forum members (Kathy Lare). Lots of choices there, and often the best choice is to find one close to you who can do proper measuring and fitting before ordering tartan and building your kilt.

Good luck, and remember pictures are a must once it arrives.

jeff

[Highlander31]

Whether it's the Edzell or the Lamont tartan, go with 8 yds of 16 oz material. You won't regret it.

[Drac]

Thanks guys. This kilt will be a Lamont. Not sure which one yet. I'm leaning toward the Modern but I have to say the weathered is calling me too. I'm hoping that this will be the first of several so ones like the Navy, Dallas, and maybe a couple universals are going to be future purchases.

As for budget my wife has agreed to let the house funds supplement my Feb Navy pay using the excuse of that will be my Valentine's Day present. The idea is to have the kilt done in time for the Scarborough Ren Fair season starting in April.

From what little I've seen USA seems to be a good choice for time (2 months) and budget wise ($500 plus a bit). I checked out a few others such as Scotweb and Celtic Croft but either the time line or price were out of the needed specs. If any one has any recommendations I can check them out between now and Feb when I go to place my order.

Jim

P.S - Hopefully the pics will work out. I have been working toward a nice setup for the fairs with some trades for my knives. I have a hunter sporran and a baselard dagger coming in from trades. My wife put together a fantastic doublet and I'm working on a sambar stag tine sgain dubh.