i think Matty Ross is thinking of there thrifty line, those have no loops and pleats are not sewn down except in the waist.
the economy is there in-between model, about 5 yards with 3 buckles ,loops and sewn down pleats, i have just got the wool economy black watch and all i can do is add to others good review of it. especially for the price. i am hoping they will do more wool in this model.