making a billie kilt for Pastor Gwen

[Lady Grey]

Ok the bias strip is a yoke, the difference in measurements is not an issue at all (forget the word tapering on this project)
Any shaping is done via the shape of the yoke pattern and on the side seams.
It will be a 3 piece yoke, 1 x back, 2 x front (1under apron, 1over apron)
Stability is always an issue with bias yokes, so.....
- you need a lining for the yoke. Basically you cut each piece x 2 = 6
- however... Cut the outside 3 on the bias of the fabric. Cut the inner lining pieces on the straight of grain (either fashion fabric or another fabric) this helps to prevent the front fabric stretching too much.
- lay out the outer yoke pieces trying to match the pattern/stripes at the side seams (it's hard and may not work)
- if you are using a good wool fabric I wouldn't recommend iron on interfacing/fusing
-you can underline with silk organza or a medium weight sew in interfacing but horsehair as used on a men's kilt will be too stiff.
-for added strength and stability use seam tape inside the waist seam when sewing up.
It's the fit of the yoke that does the work on a Billie Kilt. So...
- make a couple of toiles in cheap cotton or whatever is to hand to get the fit & shape right.
- check out women's dress patterns for a suitable yoke to save some time and hassle drafting a pattern. Just cut the front yoke twice and use that as under & over apron, adjusting the width as needed.
- you 'may' be able to add some darts for shaping in the yoke depending on the stripe of the fabric and how you want it to look.
Once the yoke is fitted, everything else should be fairly simple.
Depending on the depth of the yoke you may or may not have to sew down the top of the pleats. That's really a fashion decision for the client.

Best of luck
LG