Also, it really helps to put pins in the pleat before you stitch (more than just at the waist). Do you do that? I know that TAoK says not to, but that particular instruction was non-negotiable with my co-author because that is the way she learned. Me? I use more pins. I find it doesn't take more than a few seconds, and I rarely have to take out a pleat. It also helps keep pleats from expanding toward the waist. If you want to read a post a did awhile back on why I pin, see http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...not-pin-72250/