So. This regimental kilt has been lying in my kist for a while now waiting for my skills as a kilt maker to evolve. I purchased it form a reputable QM store in England about a year ago. All things being military 'one size does not fit all', I have a hem of 3 inches which is driving my perfectionist attribute insane and as a result I haven't being wearing it because I know there's a fault.
After consulting Barb T's TAoK book, Matt's 4 yard kilt book and this fine forum, I now have made and adjusted several kilts to date and I think I'm able to attack this military box pleat to fix it once and for all.
I unpicked the lining and found that this kilt had no canvas reinforcement from end to end. At the fell, sure, if you can call it reinforcement, however there was nothing holding the weight. The straps are attached to this fine 16 oz material with no canvass in sight. The fell does not even have a single steek of thread. A very poor, shoddy job and not what I was expecting at all. The buckles were only superficially stitched on as well.
Take a look at this fine specimen :
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