Top of Kilt Position –Traditional vs Modern

[Triathan]

I’ve read in this forum that the top straps of a traditional kilt should be worn centered at the anatomical waist, i.e., the narrowest point of the torso located just below the ribs. The actual top of the kilt will sit higher because there is a further 2” (or more) of rise, which will hopefully be flared. For a 1” wide leather strap for example, a 2” rise would mean another 1.5” of kilt above the top edge of the strap. All this is well and good, however, I submit that many fabricators of so-called “traditional” kilts these days, judging by their measurement directions, make kilts which are to be worn no higher than the belly button (or just above). Case in point: J. Higgins instructs customers to measure from the ledge of the hip bone to the knee and they will add an extra 2” themselves. The straps would then logically rest right at or slightly above the hip bone, and the top of the kilt would fall near the belly button. (btw J. Higgins is also one of a handful of manufacturers to ask for waist measurements at both the ledge of the hip bone and at the belly button. R.G. Hardie does this too.) USA Kilts doesn’t ask for waist measurements at the ledge of the hip bone, only just above the belly button, which they interpret as the “true waist,” from which one measures down to the knee to get the full kilt length. Again, there is no additional rise above this “true waist.” Same thing with Tartantown: “Length measurement should be taken from natural waist to the middle of the kneecap.” No mention of any further rise. [There are exceptions. Burnett’s & Struth’s measurement form makes you specify the desired rise (from 1-1/2” to 2-1/2”) and two lengths (from hipbone to bottom of kilt and overall finished length from top of kilt to bottom). I guess it’s up to the customer to make sure the numbers add up… They actually also don’t specify which waist measurement they want; so in this case, you could choose to measure it at the anatomical waist, belly button, or hip bone as desired, but whatever you choose, that’s where your straps are going be.] So I guess my point with all of this is that we have to be a tad careful when we say that traditional kilts are worn with straps at the anatomical waist with a rise higher than that, because what passes as a “modern traditional” kilt these days does not. In fact, they’re often a good 2 inches lower. At any rate, I do very much prefer the modern lower-wearing traditional kilt…I happen to think it looks better proportion-wise on the body, is less restrictive, and cooler in the summer.