Barb,
OK, I'm wondering ( in your mind) if there comes a point when a pleat can be too deep. I bring this point up, because in my mind there could be too much bulk at the waist and hip with the pleats overlapping. I know we cut away that bulk on a traditional hand sewn kilt but the machine made "walking" kilts just sew the pleats down. This cutaway is hidden by a curtain on traditional kilts.

So is there a formula for the ideal depth of pleat? I know you sort-of hinted at that in the above posts. i.e face of pleat *(Y)= the depth of a pleat. Can it be made to a simple formula?

Idealy we want the pleat to lie flat at it's resting position, We want a good swish ( which you mentioned in the fell) Also we don't want too much bulk.
Many thanks for the tips some of which I have already been using
cheers
Robert