I sent this question to Alan in a PM, but thought I would add it to this thread as the answer might help others. I am also making my first kilt, but not documenting it nearly as well as Alan, and have gotten to the point of deciding on the size and number of pleats. I have 33"/84cm of material to work with between the edge of the deep pleat on the left side to the edge of the box pleat on the right. My biggest problem right now is that I had decided on 12 pleats, which is giving me a total pleat size of 7cm. To cover the 22"/56cm around my backend, that works out to 4.6cm reveal with 2.4cm left over for the inner portion of the pleat. This seems like way too shallow a pleat, so I am going back through the numbers again. Seriously thinking about changing to 11 pleats, which gives me 3" for each pleat, but that would mean a reveal of 2" with 1/2" depth for the hidden portion of the pleat. Still a little shallow, but makes it easier to measure and work with. Also means fewer pleats to sew! Any thoughts? Am I going to have do (shudder!) stitch on some more fabric to make this look even half way decent?