So if I tell Scottishkilts.net that I want a 22 1/2" kilt I will actually get one that is 24 1/2" from top to bottom?
If they are standard kiltmakers, they will take the length that you give them and make a kilt that is that length plus whatever rise they add (which will probably be 2"). The 22 1/2" length is what's critical. A kilt made to a length measurement of 22 1/2" will hit at the same place on the knee regardless of how much rise is added, because the pleats should be made straight or even flare a little above the center of the buckle so that the kilt can be snugged in to the waist at 22 1/2"

Barb