I tend to disagree with Matt on this one. I've seen MANY hand sewn kilts from different makers in Scotland (Lochcarron, Strathmore, HOE, etc). Some of them are things of beauty. Some of them came out "less than spectacular".

Personally, I prefer the half and half method. When I sew the pleats, I can set the stitch length much shorter and have ABSOLUTELY NO stitches visible from the outside when I sew the pleats inside out. Yes, I have to pin the pleats to keep them from sliding while sewing them and having the "step up" effect, but the end result is a continuous horizontal line with no stitches showing.

The "canvas reinforments" must be hand sewn and the cotton lining is as well. Also, the hole for the strap to come through the pleats on the left hip is hand sewn. These are NECESSARY so that no stitching shows through the outside.