should a trad kilt be? I don't want to fudge my measurements.

I've got three kilts I wear just below the navel and they fit pretty good, and I have a made to measure kilt on the way that will sit at the navel. My measurments I gave my kilt maker wern't far from my off the rack models so I'll prolly be fine there too.
But I'm concerned about when my xmarks fabric comes....how snug should a trad heavyweight wool kilt be?