Okay,

I am trying to hand-stitch a box-pleated kilt. I am using a Stewart Black tartan and the size of the sett is such that I find that I can get a full sett repeat with each pleat (a total of seven pleats).

My problem is that I just cannot seem to find the best way to stitch the pleats together and (1) make the tartan lines match, and (2) lay nice and flat without the stitches showing.

I have been matching up the edges of each adjacent pleat and stitching them together -- similar to the way that Barb's book shows to stitch one knife-pleat to the next. Am I on the right track or totally off-base?