Wow, it's good to see this thread. You know, the box pleated kilt was first revivied by Bob Martin in 1983. It had previously gone out of fashion around the mid 1800s and modern kiltmakers had more or less forgotten about it. You said "box pleat" to a professionally trained Scottish kiltmaker and they would assume you meant a military style as worn by certain regiments (Seaforth, A&S, etc.).

Bob began making them after talking with Micheil MacDonald, then of the Scottish Tartans Society in Scotland. He was having a conversation about how to convince people in America that heavy weight cloth is really the best cloth for the kilt. People tended to want the lighter weights because it was "cooler." Micheil, who knew a thing or two about the history of the kilt, suggested to Bob that he offer four yard box pleated kilts from heavy weight wool.

Like I said, that was in 1983 and Bob has made quite a few of them in his career. But they remained rather rare. Bob is one man, and he made his kilts as an individual. He was (is) well known among Scottish-American circles, but he didn't have a shop, no web site, etc. So his business was largely word of mouth.

When I learned to make box pelated kilts (from Bob) a few years ago, I decided to offer them both on the internet and as a kilt option through the Scottish Tartans Museum gift shop. To be perfectly honest, I anticipated maybe getting an order for one once a month or so. My way of thinking was that it was an unusual historic style and most people would continue to want the more typical knife pleated kilt. Boy was I wrong. I've now done well over 200 kilts, the great majority of which have been box pleated. And through participation on this forum I think the awareness of this style has really spread. I have sent kilts to England, Scotland, Canada, Australia, and of course all across the United States.

Of the kilts we offer through the Scottish Tartans Museum gift shop, I'd say about half that we sell these days are box pleated kilts. Why do people choose this style? In some cases it is the money -- half the cloth equals less cost. In some cases it is the comfort factor -- the four yard kilt is lighter and more balances, even when you use the heavy weight cloth, which is hands down the best quality. In a lot of cases it just simply is a matter of taste and preference. Most folks walk into the shop to buy a kilt unaware that there are different pleating styles to choose from. They see examples of both, and pick either the box or knife pleat depending on what they like the looks of. And, like I said, about half choose the box pleat.

The box pleated four yard kilt is truer to the kilt's roots as an everyday garment of the people. I, personally, am encouraged by the increased recognition of this style as a legitimate form of the traditional kilt.

Thanks, guys!
Matt