I'm not a historian and do not know which regiments wore kilts of what pleating style. What I do know is a wee bit about how to make various styles of kilt pleats.

What you described is "pleat to sett." Most, if not all, regiments used "pleat to stripe" likely because it is a concept easy to understand by soldiers who had to make their own kilts from issued tartan. (But sewing perfect tapers between all those stripes in the fell is easier said than done!)

Here is a thread by JohnH, one of our kiltmaking members, in which he photo-documents the making of "military box pleats."

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/m...x.html?t=27980

Check Kathy Lare's site (in Daaaaang's post) because she can also create the military box pleat.

Daaaaang also has it right when he said,

Quote Originally Posted by Daaaaang View Post
... military box pleats (which are, as far as I know, always pleated to the stripe),...
I once played around with some scrap material and pleated it to the sett using the military box pleat style. My conclusion was that trying to recreate the sett with the small, loosely associated pleat "reveals" didn't work nearly as well as with knife pleats. In other words, it could be done, but why?