On the military box pleat in the drawing,
would you start with a regular box pleat
and fold back both ends of the box? If this
is the way its done, would you make the
box pleats extra deep (overlapping) so
after the second fold, all the folded ends
of adjacent pleats meet?

OR:

Is a military box pleat made by just folding
back the ends of knife pleats? Would this
really be a box pleat or just look like one?