As I mentioned in a previous post, I've started working on a 4 yard box pleated kilt, out of a piece of light green tweed. I have the kilt pretty much laid out. I have my lines drawn, a couple of the pleats basted in to the fell. I have my over apron drawn out to the specks in Barbs book. I've figured out my taper and all of that.
I'm wondering about a few things though...Attaching the over apron to the first pleat, the under apron to the last pleat. Is making the apron the same process as is on a knife pleated kilt ? How far down to you stitch on the apron? All the way down the fell or do you stop short? Also placement of the buckles. How do you guys do it? Where do you place the hole for the belt on the left side? And with less material in the back of the kilt, is it still a good idea to cut away the excess and line it with canvas?

Heres what I have so far... measured in metric (mostly) to keep the math easier.
I have a waist of 105 cm
hips are 116 cm
length of 24 inches.
length of fell as 8 inches

my split at the waist is Apron 53 cm Pleats 52cm
my split at the hip is Apron 56cm Pleats 60cm

I have 8 pleats, the pleat size at the waist is 6.5cm and the pleat size at the hips is 7.5cm.

I may be totally off my rocker here with the layout and my math, so if I'm messed up big time, one or two or three of you pros in here, feel free to chime in and tell me if I'm going about it all wrong.

Thanks for the help guys :-D