I'm a complete newbie to X Marks the Scot, though I have trawled the forums for a long time to find answers to various DIY questions. But I am in a bind with my first x-kilt and could use some help.

While checking the fit of my first x-kilt after completing the tapered pleats (looked very solid by any measure!) but unlike my daughter who though it looked great especially with my Darth Maul t-shirt, it did not look quite right. I am not 100% convinced I have the first pleat utterly wrong.

Basically the first pleat has two (2) folds that align with the left edge of the over apron. See this image which shows the stacked accordian fold from the hem:


The top pleat is ~1.5 inches or half the 3 inches from the layout instructions to use to "set" the first pleat.

I "think" what I need to do is:
- take out the t bar tacking and the hem to fell stitching of the right edge (up against the over apron)
- follow the directions AlanH provides for making the "giant" pleat under the over apron
- then make the #1 pleat ~2.5" deep at the hem and ~5" deep at the waist

Is this right, or am I off in the weeds?

Next when "setting" the first 3" or so of the over apron to the material of the deep reverse pleat, are the top edge of the two pieces of material to be aligned, or, does the reverse pleat material run at a slight downward angle?

Finally, when fixing the deep pleat on pleat #1, so I a fix any of the pleat material to the waist?

I am this close to finishing my first x-kilt, but i'm confused, lacking confidence, and have no working example to borrow o fgure it all out.

Thanks,

John Dugaw
[French, Prussian, and Scottish, you figure it out!]