the little bits of hem in a properly-made kilt

[Barb T]

I thought I might post a few pics about the little bits of hem that are put into a properly made kilt so that nothing sags out from under the bottom of the apron. Tartan is Weathered Douglas, if you're interested. Oh - and this is Lochcarron tartan with one of the turned (tuck in) selvedges that's being discussed in this thread http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/d...757/index.html The selvedge is visible, but they did a pretty good job putting it in a good place in the tartan for it to blend as well as it could. But it is unavoidably darker in color than the other blocks. It's also stiffer than the rest of the tartan, so it's hard to turn up a smooth taper.

On the left side of the apron, the point of the deep pleat should be completely hidden, as below (red arrow).



In order to accomplish that, you turn up a little hem tapered from a max of about 1/2" at the point of the deep pleat and tapering to nothing at the edge of the apron and at the lap point of the apron on the first pleat.







On the left side of the underapron, the kilt bottom is also turned up a little to keep the point of the underapron edge from showing below the bottom of the apron. The hem starts about 9" from the edge of the underapron and tapers to about an inch at the raw edge, and the hem is stitched _before_ the facing is folded and tacked.





If you are putting a hem in a kilt, you turn up the hem an extra amount at the point of the deep pleat and along a taper at the underapron edge. Remember that, if you want to hem a finished kilt, you need to open up both the apron and underapron facings, turn the hem up, and then remake the facings.