Had mine done to the sett. I've kept copies of X Marks tartan kilt pics that are posted. Of those that show the pleats 13 are pleated to sett (including Ham, Retro Red,and Glenn) and 17 are done to the stripe (Jamie, Alex and Mike1). Unfortunately the pics are too small for me to figure out which stripes are used. Can tell you all the pleated to stripe kilts have horizontal white lines showing across the back.

Ron