Let's make the long story short;

The traditional kilt that I'm making for my wee son in 13oz. wool is too small. I've done everything except tear open the pleats and try to widen them after having been cut and even though the kilt measures correctly on the outside, even a little large, it is very snug and will require an extra inch on the underapron just to reach the buttonhole. It'll fit this fall and maybe some of the winter, but I'm going to need to come up with some severe alterations next year to justify letting out the 2½" hem. I've got some extra material so I should be able to rig something but it'll sure take some time.

Why has this happened?
What should I do to avoid this problem in future? (I've two wool box pleats planned next and then adult sized traditional kilts)

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