Mk2: Girl's Box Pleat in Roscommon County Crest Tartan

[xman]

Waiting for the straps to arrive to finish kilt Mk1.3 (because it was sewn together three times) I have begun Mk2. I had a false start with this one too, but caught it before I got too far. I had the underapron centred on the wrong stripe which I realised would have made the back pleats under the two aprons of different sizes which is an idea I didn't like so I decided to absorb the extra fabric on the outside edge to make it symmetrical. Here it is so far. (it's a damned pretty tartan)



Sewing the box pleat is a little more cumbersome having to reach under the a fabric to stitch the pleats and also to use all those pins being unable to pull the fabric taut. It's incorrect to say I'm agonising or taking pains over stitching these pleats since there is enjoyment in doing it, but I am being sure to make each stitch as well as I can make it. I want my niece to look good and appreciate this kilt.

I do have some questions regarding the shaping of the aprons however. On this and Mk1 I have drawn the shape of the apron and underapron by eyeballing it. I have also followed (carefully this time) the instructions in TAoKM for marking the aprons and added the extra 1"* on the outside edge of the apron to make sure the apron covers the underapron, also being sure to reverse everything because this is a girl's kilt and the apron will buckle on the left and underapron on the right.

This leads me to my questions:

1. If the added width on the apron is to cover the underapron, why is the underapron also given an extra inch on the same side? (half at the waist) Wouldn't this negate the advantage?
2. Why is the added width not the same on both sides to make the apron perfectly symmetrical? Theoretically asymmetry should make the apron appear a little off centre and it would be easier to match the two apron edges and two underapron edges with each other if one could follow the symmetrical lines in the tartan which would be exactly the same on both sides of the apron/underapron.
Also;
3. The instructions in MaTBPK give different directions for dealing with the two deep/back pleats. Since this kilt is essentially symmetrical, I'm wondering, why shouldn't I either dart or hem both of these pleats the same way?
4. MaTBPK also directs me to follow the instructions in TAoKM and join the two fabrics from only 1" above the fell and down. Since this is a box pleat and the fabric will not be cut away I'm wondering if I should actually join the fabric right up or will this create an uncomfortable seam for the wearer to contend with on the lower back?

I know there must be a century of collected wisdom behind these directions, but they escape me so far.

X

* I have actually converted all measurements and am operating in metric units.