After a bit of thought I have elected to begin hunting for a new (thrift store or clearance-rack)jacket to modify. My old ones are getting a bit tight across the shoulders. It will be a dark blue or black jacket in either a crail or breamer style. I've modified several to wear with a kilt and am pretty comfortable with the process, and more importantly how to pick one that lends itself to modification. This time around I am going to add a new item...a waistcoat.

My question is three-fold.

First, where should the bottom of the waistcoat be and how should it be shaped? I wear the top of my kilts directly across my navel due to a somewhat odd build...like all of my Mother's kin I'm large around the chest and shoulder and round at the waist. No gut, but my waist is as round as a bucket. I also have arms that are a little long for my height...6 foot 2 inch wingspan, but I'm 5 foot 10 inches(and hence have a heck of a time buying shirts and jackets). I wear the kilt slightly low to give the illusion of a balanced build(I also wear pants a little high for the same effect. I don't know if this will matter in selection and fit for a waistcoat, but figured it wouldn't hurt to include it.

Second, if I have to modify the waistcoat to have the bottom properly placed, what should I look for as far as shape, fit, sizing, button placement, length, pockets, etc.?

Lastly, though I would like a matched set for dressier occasions I know the likelihood of finding a jacket and waistcoat set that will be suited to modding might not be good, so what are your recommendations for material and color choices? I have finally let go of the idea that every article has to be perfectly color coordinated, especially for day-wear and less-than-black-tie events and think that a contrasting waistcoat can look pretty sharp...done right of course.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.