I was studying The Art of Kiltmaking last night in preparation to start my first kilt. I am not sure I fully understand what I am reading, so could anyone comment on my understanding or lack thereof for the kilt I plan to make:

My kilt subject is a 6'3" 19-year-old. His waist is 35" and his hip is 41" at the widest curve of the buttocks. The fell is 8" and the total length is 27" The fabric is 100% worsted wool--11 oz-- in a Black Stewart design. It seems that the sett of the tartan will determine what choices of the amount of fabric I will be using. The sett is small, only a sliver over 3 inches. I figure I will need to either double or triple the sett to make a kilt.

For a double sett, the resultant sett width would be 6.125 inches. I calculated an apron width of 19" at the waist and 20" at the hip. The pleat area would be 16" at the waist and 21" at the hip. If I am doing this correctly, I think the waist could be pleated 3/4 inch using 5.1" of fabric. I believe the kilt would have 21 pleats, with the hip pleat being one inch. This would mean the pleated area would use 109" which is 3 yards. I would add one yard for the apron and facing and another yard for the underapron and facing, so a total of 5 yards.

Making a huge assumption that this is correct,--and if my plan is at all close to being right, please suggest any corrections--should I consider making a triple sett instead, so more fabric will be used, giving the kilt more weight in the rear.

The fabric I have purchased is not perfect for a kilt, I know, but it was affordable and it has a nice selvage. I have 5+ yards, and it is 60" wide, so I think I have enough to make either a double or triple set, whichever would be recommended. The pattern is symmetrical.

According to the book, this kilt must be very exact in construction, but it seems like there are a few minor fractions of inches that must be overlooked so as not to have to use a micrometer in making it. Does extra fabric get folded under that last pleat and should I calculate differently so I have a little extra to tuck in there?

If anyone knows of a California kiltmaking class coming up, please let me know.

Thanks for any suggestions or corrections to my plan.