I'm taking a second crack at a bias cut waistcoat that I screwed up about 8 months ago (I had the whole thing done, but messed up the button holes...and since it was really fitted, I also grew out of it in that time...) The vest is made of 11oz. wool tartan with a tartan back vs. satin.

So I've disassembled the original vest...took out the lining, removed the fronts, removed to pockets from the fronts for re-use in the new vest, etc.

I reworked my pattern to add a little girth (the new one should be a bit on the looser side...I will decide if I want to add an adjustment strap in the back once I get it reassembled).

My question is about interfacing. On the first round I used a fusible non-woven interfacing. I found that it didn't fuse that well to the vest and was too light in weight. This time around, I'm leaning towards sew in woven interfacing. I have some heavyweight hymo that I've used in a kilt on hand. What I'm wondering is whether it might be too heavy...especially with 11oz. fabric. Do I need to go lighter weight?

Also...when I sew the dart in the front, do I stitch it before or after I baste the interfacing? I can envision the interfacing making that seem a bit bulky...but I might be wrong.

Any thoughts...and any good links on tailoring would be most welcome. I'm rather handy with a needle and thread...just trying to expand my knowledge.