Military Box Pleats: how much "excess" to cut-out of the fell?

[jhockin]

Well, I've finally finished sewing the fell and basting the pleats, in my first attempt,at military box pleats.


Shot at 2011-07-18
I've searched the forum, but the only thing I can find is warnings, to leave more seam allowance, than 1/2". I've also been told that the cut-out are narrower, than for a knife-pleat.
SO: can anyone who has done one of these tell me: how much seam allowance SHOULD I leave? 1"? 11/2"?? How much is too much? What is the opinion, of those that have made an MBP?

[Tartan Tess]

Hold on. You don't cut out the excess in a box pleat.
If you are using the supplement by Matt and Barb see
the *note box on page 30

[davidlpope]

Hold on. You don't cut out the excess in a box pleat.
If you are using the supplement by Matt and Barb see
the *note box on page 30

A Military Box-Pleat is not the same type of Box-Pleat that Matt makes. It's really a knife-pleat with the pleat edge turned back on itself. Different animal....

[longhuntr74]

Which type of kilt are we talking about here? I can't tell for sure, but from the look of the picture that looks more like a box pleat kilt rather than a military box pleat. The pleats appear to be very wide for a knife-pleated or military box pleated kilt.

If you're using Barb's instructions, it would also lead me to believe you're talking about box pleated kilts rather than military box pleats...since Barb (to my knowledge) does not make those and I know she hasn't made a "how to" guide on them.

[jhockin]

It is a Military Box pleat ( the pleats are approx 1" wide), NOT a ( Matt style) Box pleat.
(I'm wondering how much seam allowance to leave, when cutting out the material in the fell)

[beerbecue]

Looks atypical due to the fact that most military box pleats are to the similar stripe in all pleats.. hence the questions...

I like the alternating stripes quite a bit

[Pleater]

It depends - like most things which are a matter of experience.

If the fabric is firmly woven then you can cut out more than if it is loose and likely to fray.

Maybe if you trim to 1 inch from the fold - as the pleats are 1 inch wide, so the number of layers are minimised but there is a smooth surface for pressing, no lumps or dips to make an uneven surface.

I have to cut out box pleats - if made in a firm fabric such as cotton, as the tapering sides of each panel are longer than the centre. It is impossible to make the fell lie flat without removing the fabric under vertical tension. Those with a need for less tapering will not have the problem.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[ChattanCat]

I haven't made a military box pleat but the interfacing will take the load when tightening the straps. Not sure why you would need more than 1/2".

BTW, the kilt look great!

Cheers,

[jhockin]

just to clarify - Military box-pleats look like this

It depends - like most things which are a matter of experience.

If the fabric is firmly woven then you can cut out more than if it is loose and likely to fray.

Maybe if you trim to 1 inch from the fold - as the pleats are 1 inch wide, so the number of layers are minimised but there is a smooth surface for pressing, no lumps or dips to make an uneven surface.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

thanks Anne - I may try that; I figure always better to leave a little extra, rather than cut-out too much ; esp. since both way2fractious & JohnH both warned about leaving more seam allowance than 1/2" ( but didn't specify HOW MUCH to leave)

[jhockin]

well, without further experienced advice, I've gone ahead


I've left 2" seam allowance , along the sides, curving down to 1" above the bottom of the fell. The pleat reveal, in the fell, is about 1" wide, so, on the inside, each side of the pleat, in the fell, overlaps about 1" ( or 2 pleats).
I'll see how it works out - better too much than not enough ( i hope)