Pleats versus wrap

[ggibby]

So, I have a traditional wool 8-yard in Graham of Menteith. I've worn it many places, but only once to work. I DO wear my Mountain Hardwear 'Mountain Kilt' most everyday. The Mtn Kilt (MK) is really a wraparound skirt, not pleated. Very light (5 ounces) and nylon, so it's nearly stain proof.

Weight, expense, and the tartan vs. solid issues aside, I wear the MK because I climb ladders in view of co-workers and customers, squat, sit, and generally move a lot.

I'm hesitant to get into any of the pleated styles because of the, uh, exposure the pleats will allow. Also, in my traditional, I can always feel all the fabric when I sit, and 'the sweep' is still a conscious effort for me.

SO, to you wearers of USA-, Ameri-, Bear-, Utili- and other kilts- tell me about the differences between the lighter cousins and the traditional.

When I hunker down, will the back hit the floor around my feet?
Will I yank it when I stand up, kilt underfoot?
When I climb a ladder, will the drape give the audience a peek?
When I drop quickly into the desk chair to answer the phone, how lumpy is the seat?
How do they handle rough use?

I'm not looking to decide on one kilt here- just explore pleats & swish in my workplace.

Thanks!

-G

[Andrew]

ggibby, I know that Kilts are to have pleats and lots of them. Like you said a wrap around is a skirt. A Kilt is a Kilt and a skirt is a skirt.
As for the exposure that you might be getting working in a Kilt with the pleats and all, well there are a few things one could do. You could ask your co-workers if they are conserned about you in a Kilt and the odd time you might show off the good. You could wear an undergarmet if you are really worried about the whole thing, I personally wouldn't wear any but that's just me. As far as the pleats and movement it is all a matter of getting use to it I think. The more you wear your Kilt in a everyday enviroment the better you get at not showing the world your stuff, unless you want the world to see and then you just do a few twirls and there you are!
I personally wear Bear Kilts and I have a 8 yard and a 4 yard. I find the 8 yard a little lumpy if I don't sweep the pleats as I sit down and the 4 yard I don't have as many pleats so less lumps. Like I said you get use to what you are wearing. I also found wearing a heavy sporran helps with keeping the goods hidden.

[ggibby]

Thank you for your input, Andrew, but my coworkers actually aren't much of an issue.
I work in an outdoor shop, and customers are the issue.

I haven't worn trousers regularly to work in at least six months. Wearing anything under the MK really defeats the purpose, and I know with the wrap I show nothing, no matter how high the ladder or location of the viewer. Same with squatting to help with shoes, or even sitting to tie my own boots. With a subtle tug at the under layer of the apron, the 'pipes ain't a' peekin' aut.

And it's impossible for me to step on the MK, even in a full squat. I've stepped on the back of my traditional at least twice. Pulled a muscle I dinna knew I had trying not to rip it.

I completely agree about the sporran- our female customers are the healthy outdoor/active type and this IS California. And when you work in shoes, the customer must bend over at some point. Sometimes reactions are out of my, uh, control but, under my sporran!

Until my job changes, I fear pleats will be for after hours and days off. *sigh*

Thanks again,
-G

[Andrew]

Until my job changes, I fear pleats will be for after hours and days off. *sigh*

Thanks again,
-G[/quote]

ggibby Andrew here again. I am sure there is a Kilt maker out there that can help you in this matter. I know the Bear here in Vancouver is very good at trying new things with Kilts. You might be able to get a Poly Kilt made with the pleats there, but stiched together somehow so that the Kilt doesn't open the way a reagluar one does. I am sure there is a way to make it all look like a proper Kilt but not act like one. I think you should ask Bear for a little help in the matter.
I hope that you do find something that will work for you because Kilted is the way to be!

[Canuck]

Weight, expense, and the tartan vs. solid issues aside, I wear the MK because I climb ladders in view of co-workers and customers, squat, sit, and generally move a lot.

I'm hesitant to get into any of the pleated styles because of the, uh, exposure the pleats will allow. Also, in my traditional, I can always feel all the fabric when I sit, and 'the sweep' is still a conscious effort for me.

SO, to you wearers of USA-, Ameri-, Bear-, Utili- and other kilts- tell me about the differences between the lighter cousins and the traditional.

When I hunker down, will the back hit the floor around my feet?
Will I yank it when I stand up, kilt underfoot?
When I climb a ladder, will the drape give the audience a peek?
When I drop quickly into the desk chair to answer the phone, how lumpy is the seat?
How do they handle rough use?

I'm not looking to decide on one kilt here- just explore pleats & swish in my workplace.

Thanks!


-G

I'm a kiltbuilder, and I wear a kilt everyday. I also work in the theatre as a Stage Manager, and I have to do some of the same things you do. I build contemporary kilts out of denim and leather.
I find that the length of the kilt is important. I aim to have my kilts touch or at the centre of the kneecap. I tend to sew down the pleats to 1/3rd the length of the garment so it's a little tighter around the butt, and still give a good swish.
It takes some practise but it will become second nature either swiping the pleats before sitting or giving a rocking motion forward as you sit down so the pleats lie flat. Sometimes I will push the apron down between my legs when I sit to minimize exposure.
As for materials, the leather is the nicest, and weighs about the same as a medium weight 8yd wool kilt. The pleats hang well, and don't wrinkle and still give a good swish.
I do admit that when squatting or kneeling the kilt can brush the floor. depending on the kilt it may be a concern. I haven't stepped on mine yet.
The great thing about a kilt is the swish, it gives a movement of air around your legs, that one doesn't get with a skirt. This I find is a bonus and is one of the reasons a wool kilt isn't too hot in the summer or too cool in the winter.
I haven't work with nylon yet so I'm not sure of the properties of that material and how it holds the pleats or does the swish movement.
It's a learning curve but once you have it into your brain you can wear a kilt almost anywhere.
Cheers
Robert

[ggibby]

a HA! Yes! A fellow climb & squatter!

And thus spoke Canuck:
"I tend to sew down the pleats to 1/3rd the length of the garment so it's a little tighter around the butt..."

I like your method very much, and frankly, my vanity appreciates the idea of the snug fit. I have a competing idea, newly minted: could a strip of elastic be sewn inside at the 1/3 mark instead of stitching all the way down? This would keep the fit you describe, reduce 'ladder drape', but also give a bit more freedom of movement.

At the shop, we sell lots of nylon, polyester, and cotton (and blends) in 'performance' and travel clothing. The classic debate is durability and drying time versus 'hand' and breathability. Synthetics win in the first, naturals the second. Best of three is always Customer's Preference.
The Mtn Kilt (sorry, but that's what it's named) is 'Hardwear Cloth' and 100% nylon. Very low maintenance and durable, but actually gets a bit warm, due in part to lack of swish, but also the nature of the fabric (low breathability). Also, synthetics tend to be a bit louder when rubbing (I'm thinking of pleats and apron movement). Still better than all trousers and most shorts, though.
For daily wear, it holds up very well, so I think synth is my choice for work, but of course I'm willing to listen.

From reading the forum, sounds like you are busy with the show at the moment, so I won't pester you about building me anything. What you describe is very intriguing, and I wonder if any of the alternakilt builders would be willing...

Thanks for the input- hope springs eternal!

-G

[Canuck]

I have a competing idea, newly minted: could a strip of elastic be sewn inside at the 1/3 mark instead of stitching all the way down? This would keep the fit you describe, reduce 'ladder drape', but also give a bit more freedom of movement.

). Also, synthetics tend to be a bit louder when rubbing (I'm thinking of pleats and apron movement). Still better than all trousers and most shorts, though.
For daily wear, it holds up very well, so I think synth is my choice for work, but of course I'm willing to listen.

From reading the forum, sounds like you are busy with the show at the moment, so I won't pester you about building me anything. What you describe is very intriguing, and I wonder if any of the alternakilt builders would be willing...

Thanks for the input- hope springs eternal!

-G

I'm working on a show at night and building kilts during the day. The show I'm working on closes on Saturday so I then get to build kilts full time.
I think the elastic idea, though novel, may be cumbersom and prove to be uncomfortable. But it's something for the R&D table.
I'm not sure how much noise the nylon will produce as the material is light but again something to R&D I guess we have to see what the sheep think, and if they get nervous upon hearing a person in a nylon kilt it's of course a no go.
Macambi has a product that uses a special nylon, I should try and see if that can translate into a kilt.
But pester away...it's good to find out what people are thinking and what they would like to see in a kilt.
Cheers
Robert
(who like some Scots, don't like zippers)

[ggibby]

Also sprach Canuck:
"The show I'm working on closes on Saturday so I then get to build kilts full time."

OK, then, if you're making product for sale, sign me up! Let me know how best to contact you to work out details.

If not for sale, if you could help me describe to another kiltmaker how you make yours...

Excellent!

[shillelaghbruises]

I don't know if someone told you this already, but utilikilts have modesty snaps, so the front connects to the back if you need to climb a ladder or something.

[ggibby]

Hallo Shillelaghbruises!
What I have now has a modesty snap, and it actually makes climbing ladders more difficult, and walking in general very strange. Too much like, well, bifurcation. For sitting on the ground it's handy, but otherwise I don't use it.

And I'd rather a design/fit that didn't require that much attention.

Thanks for the thought, though!

-G