Quote Originally Posted by xman View Post
This Geoffrey, part of the Kilt Kollection, does not either.

When a kilt has an inverted pleat under the underapron, it allows the underapron to "move" as the wearer walks without pulling on the pleats. Without the inverted pleat, the last pleat in the kilt feels a tug and opens up as soon as the wearer takes as step. If I were to put the very classy embroidery inside the last pleat that XMan's kilt has, I would want it to open up every time the wearer took a step. Otherwise, it would never show. So, I would leave out the inverted pleat in that case. On the other hand, for a kilt without this kilt of embelishment (virutally all kilts), an inverted pleat helps keep the line of the pleats looking nice when the wearer is walking. Takes a little more tartan, but a kiltmaker isn't really saving much in terms of tartan cost or labor by eliminating it.