Waistcoat fit

[Peter Crowe]

When I look at historical portraits and photographs, I see men wearing waistcoats that are very snug. I might even describe it as tight. But when I see modern men wearing waistcoats, they seem to be loose, almost on the verge of being too big around for them.

What happened?

Is it that our cultural sense of vanity changed and men are larger around in the middle than they were in bygone days, which makes them avoid wearing snug waistcoats? Or is there some other explanation which eludes me?

It seems to me that the vast majority of waistcoat-wearers these days are simply wearing them too loosely. And it doesn't look nearly as natural or as good as snug ones.

Or am I way off base?

I think you are correct Tobus. I imagine that waistcoats of old were more often bespoke too.

I would add that since living in the US I have become aware of differences between what is called English (UK) tailoring and American tailoring. American cut jackets tend to be boxier with big shoulders and wide arm holes with centre vents. English style tends to be more fitted with higher, narrower arm holes and double-vented. Continental (especially Italian) style tend to be cut somewhere between the two and unvented. Companies like Brooks Brothers offer a choice between American and English styling on their bespoke range. Most kilt jackets (although shorter) I have conform to the cut of the English style.