Stillwater shadow tartan

[fluter]

Can you expand on what you actually did?

Many Thanks,
Nylo

The best answer is a copy of The Art of Kiltmaking. After the pleats are sewn in a traditional kilt, fabric is cut away from the inside above the fell. This reduces the overlapping layers, known fondly to SWK wearers as "pillow-butt."

With a Stillwater heavyweight, we'd first remove the lining. Skipping the first pleat(s) near the buttonhole, fabric is cut away in the fell area. This then necessitates steeking (to stabilize the pleats at the fell line), and adding a stabilizer (a strip of fabric to take the stress between the buckles. Add interfacing if desired, and replace the lining.

The book has drawings and photos, which helps a great deal. A nice green shadow awaits this treatment in my closet; I've built a trad kilt, essentially doing the same steps.